Monday, August 25, 2014


2014 is definitely the year of travel.  In January we spent a few days in Bali with family rediscovering the island.  In March, a much-awaited return to Moscow (last time I was there was 17 years ago) to show A the new and improved MOCKBA.  This was followed by two weeks in Manila with the kids and a trip to Tokyo in the spring.  As it was my first time to Tokyo, I was lucky that my good friend Rumi had just returned home to Japan after several years abroad which gave me the best food tour guide for my initiation to the amazing gourmet offerings of Tokyo. 

We stayed at the Imperial Hotel, a classic Japanese hotel, located close to the famous luxury  shopping area of Ginza.  On our first evening, we decided to see what the area had to offer.  Close by was a small street parallel to the train tracks lined with restaurants on either side.  A & I meandered along until we found a packed sushi bar towards the end of the road.  I won't even be able to tell you the name as all the signs and menus were in Japanese so we did what tourists usually do and just pointed out something on the menu.  It was a 12-piece sushi platter with  amaebi (sweet shrimp), maguro (tuna), hotate (scallop), ikura gukan (salmon roe), uni (sea urchin), negi toro (chopped tuna with chives), tamago (cooked egg), aji (mackerel), chutoro (fatty tuna belly), hirame (flounder), unagi (grilled eel) and the very strange kazunoko (herring roe) which neither of us ate.  All that plus a side dish of fried egg with mushrooms set us back around US$25 each - a bargain after all those stories about overpriced Tokyo.  We walked around the block a bit to digest our dinner and as we neared the hotel, we witnessed aTokyo phenomenon - hundreds of ladies queued up in several orderly single file rows waiting to greet a stage performer about to exit the theater across the street.  No pushing and shoving, each one waiting patiently with a piece of paper (greetings?) or a bouquet of flowers to offer the star.  The sense of order and respect - that was what my first impression of Tokyo.

The next morning, A set off for work while I had a leisurely breakfast and did my first day exploring Ginza which was several blocks away.  I started off at Hakuhinkan Toy Park, Tokyo's version of Toys R Us, and walked slowly up the street, window shopping and people watching.  By the time I reached  the middle, it was time for lunch so I followed Rumi's advice and went to Mitsukoshi where there are five floors devoted to food - the 11th and 12th for restaurants, the 9th for smaller self-serve counters with a large terrace, B2 for the food court and B3 for grocery items.  I went up to the the 11th floor and walked into the first one that caught my eye - a tonkatsu restaurant which has almost full with mostly Japanese and two solo diners, just like me, who looked like tourists.  I sat at a corner table and chose the tonkatsu and ebikatsu (prawn) set which came with soup, rice and pickles.  The food came quickly with the crunchy but not oily panko-crusted pork cutlet and the equally crispy deep-fried prawn set on a wire rack over a plate with some lemon and tartare sauce served with the brown rice I asked for.   On the table were the two containers of homemade tonkatsu sauce - one sweet and the other spicy along with some implements that I had never seen nor used before. It was basically a shallow corrugated ceramic  bowl and a piece of wood.  I looked around and saw what my neighbors were doing and realized that this was like a mortar and pestle and was being used to hand grind sesame seeds to be added onto the tonkatsu sauce to thicken and flavor it.  The tricky part out of the way, I finally began to eat my delicious lunch and finished it off with the tangy crunchy pickles.  One of the things I enjoy when I'm discovering a city is eating on my own - it gives me chance to concentrate on my food and at the same time observe the locals and their rituals.

After lunch, I walked to Ito-ya - Tokyo's premier stationery shop to have a look and ended up spending hours and lots of yen, ordering embossed leather luggage tags and purchasing cards and stationery.  It was late afternoon by then and my energy was flagging so I went to the nearest coffee shop I saw - Le Cafe Doutor - which was filled with locals sitting alone having mostly iced coffee.  I ordered a black coffee and enjoyed my caffeine for half an hour before walking the roundabout way back to the Imperial. 

The following day while walking around Ginza again, Rumi and I stumbled upon a months-old coffee boutique - Toriba - where they roast their own beans on site and have a small coffee bar where we sampled two types of their funky-named music-influenced blends - Jamaican Dub Mix and the Deep House Mix.   Later on, she also took me to the Bulgari's Il Bar where she made me the typical cold coffee served with sugar syrup and lots of ice.  This being the Bulgari, a tiny bowl of chocolate covered almonds also came with our coffees.  On our last day, after a morning spent at mega-store Muji, A and I had lunch and coffee at the nearby Dean and Deluca in Yurakucho.  For a coffee lover like me, the amazing  selection of coffee and different cafes from the self-serve Doutor to the high-end coffee with a view at the Bulgari, was a pleasure.

Tokyo Cafes

Friday, July 18, 2014


I'm on a roll and yesterday and todays' post are my favorite Singapore restaurants so far (in the almost ten months we've been here).  Luke's has been around for some time with its' original location near hip and happening Club street well-loved by many for the food, the drinks, the ambience and the fact that the kitchen stays open till midnight.  The new one opened a few months ago in a strange spot inside the renovated Robinson's department store at The Heeren building.  Once you walk through the store and enter the doors of Luke's, you realize why the location was right all along.  The place is sleek with black leather banquettes and cozy mini-booths for two lining the upper level and a long bar on the lower level with a floor to ceiling window overlooking busy Orchard road.

The menu is simple and spread out over two pages - one with items from the oyster bar, table snacks to be shared, a caviar service and starters then the second  for chophouse classics, chops and side dishes and a listing of specialty beers and cocktails.  The wine list is extensive with eleven of them, from sparkling to fortified, served by the glass.  

As soon as the order is placed, a plate of warm mini-cornbread served with a dab of sweet butter is served.  From the winter 2014 menu, we shared the smoked trout dip with crackers, celery and radish - a smoky almost dry shredded trout which we spread onto the accompanying extra-thin brown crisp bread and the oysters "lukefeller" (instead of Rockefeller) - baked oysters with spinach, Pernod and parsley.

It was hard to choose a main course from the selections offered but as I hardly get to eat steak tartar, its what I had even if it was listed as a starter.  This one came perfectly seasoned and chunky with capers along with toasted slices of rye bread.  A had a well-seared veal chop with anchovy marmite butter.  We shared several sides - the extra crispy Old bay seasoned french fries, green asparagus and the creamy lobster mac and cheese topped with ritz cracker crumbs.

For lunch one day with the ladies, I had a delicious caesar salad topped with fried oysters. There are also a few specials (like their famous hamburger) not available for dinner.  On another occasion, four of us dined on a couple of starters (tuna tartar and the smoked trout dip) followed by two orders of 400 gram USDA prime rib-eye "naked" (meaning just with salt and pepper) and a tableful of side dishes.  Desserts are few and the two we tried were ok but nothing to write home about - it's the only thing they could improve on.  Otherwise, the service, the atmosphere and the food are outstanding.  At Luke's, there is always something delicious to eat with no surprises or gimmicks, just real good food served simply.


Luke's Oyster Bar and Chophouse
03-02, The Heeren (inside Robinson's department store)
260 Orchard Road
Singapore 238855
Telephone: +65 6733 4813
*Open Mondays to Saturdays from noon to 10:30 p.m.

Another one at:
20 Gemmill Lane
Singapore 069256
Telephone: +65 6221 4468
*Open Mondays to Saturdays from noon to midnight

Thursday, July 17, 2014


My favorite tonkatsu restaurant in Singapore is Mandarin Gallery's Ma Maison.  A franchise from Nagoya, Japan, this restaurant only serves several versions of its' namesake tonkatsu (deep fried Panko breadcrumbed pork cutlet in 120gr., 180 gr. or 220 gr, portions) from the Japanese Kurobuta pork cutlet to the pork millefeuille (thin slices of park layered into a cutlet).  They even have Hungarian Mangalica pork or Iberico pork. There are also other deep-fried battered goodies - prawns, fish, oysters and chicken all served in a set with accompanying grated radish, soup, pickles, shredded cabbage and a choice of either white or brown rice.  On the table are the usual accompaniments - sweet or spicy sauce for the tonkatsu, sesame seeds to grate into the sauce, soy sauce and sesame dressings for the salad and radish.  The concept is simple - make your choice from the extra large menu with photos then wait for them to bring you your set menu tray.  I always go for either the Rosukatsu 120 gram (pork loin) with brown rice and a side order of ebi katsu (deep fried prawn) and kaki katsu (deep-fried oyster).  It's a popular place so get in line early especially for dinner on weekends.

Ma Maison
02-36 Mandarin Gallery
333A Orchard road
Telephone: +65 6733 4541
*Open daily for lunch from 11 to 3 p.m. and dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. No reservations but the queue moves quickly

Wednesday, July 16, 2014


One of my favorite restaurant areas in Singapore is Dempsey Hill where the old (colonial black and whites) and the new (modern restaurant concepts) have successfully come together and with the added bonus of free parking, a rarity in Singapore where sometimes, the cost of parking equals an expensive main course.   A newish addition to the P.S. Cafe group, Chopsuey Cafe quietly opened late last year in a quiet corner of Dempsey road.  We have been several times now (for brunch and lunch) to this beautiful, airy, light-filled all black and white interior (from the floor tiles to the chairs) with color brought in by the towering flower arrangement and the cakes displayed in huge glass domes.  There's a cozy indoor dining area, an roofed open-air conservatory and an outdoor terrace for those willing to brave the humidity and for smokers.

The extensive menu of mostly Asian dishes, from dim sum - both steamed and fried to noodles and rice along with a selection of classics with a twist and Asian versions of western dishes makes it accessible to all tastes.  When we go, we usually do a mix of some Western with some Asian dishes which we share family-style.  Dim sum is beautifully presented on pewter edged dim sum baskets stamped with the restaurant logo, plates are placed on different height pewter stands and the accompanying sauces  - spicy tamarind, sweet chili and a fiery red chili. There are also daily specials on the blackboard including starters, main courses, desserts and even drinks.

For brunch one day, we had the west corn, coriander and potato rosti benedict - poached eggs with a sweet sour hollandaise and the mandarin French toast - thick slices of caraway bread with mandarin marmalade and a passion-fruit lime butter.

Lunch is more of a family affair with lots of dishes placed in the middle for everyone to share.  From the dim sum menu, we've had the char skew steamed buns and the har gau (prawn dumplings), the deep-fried crayfish stuffed bean curd skins and the crispy spicy prawn wantons.  For starters, our favorites include the classic prawn toasties (sesame prawn toasts), the sticky crunchy baby squid and the san chou pau (minced chicken and pork with corn and green beans wrapped in lettuce cups and eaten like a taco).  For main courses, we had the orange beef - battered deep fired beef in a sticky orange sauce, the chili jam prawns, Szechuan string beans with minced chicken and a maple apple crispy pork belly form the daily blackboard special.  We also shared a mud crab fried rice while the kids had the usual egg fried rice.  For drinks, we always have one of their special fruit coolers - lychee and lime or lemon and basil, although there is an interesting list of cocktails and wines as well.  Dessert was their hummingbird pavlova - a tropical version of the classic, this time filled with pineapple, many and passion fruit.  As with all restaurants from the P.S. Cafe group, the average check is usually high but in the case of Chopsuey cafe it's well worth it.

Block 10, Dempsey Road 01-23
Dempsey Hill 247700
Telephone: +65 9224 6611
*Open for Lunch Mondays to Fridays from 11:30 a.m., Dinner daily from 6:30 p.m., Brunch and Tea on Saturdays, Sundays and Public Holidays from 10:30 to 5:00 p.m.

Tuesday, July 15, 2014


In bustling Chinatown are several small streets where Singapore's hip and happening restaurants are located.  Shophouses line these tiny streets and one after another, they have been dolled up on the outside and restored on the inside for the many young chefs starting out.  Created by Jason Atherton, a Gordon Ramsay alum from Verre in Dubai and Maze in London, this tiny tapas bar headed by Andrew Walsh has been serving Spanish-inspired small plates since it opened in 2011. 

Getting a much-coveted stool at the communal bar was a challenge which is why we never risked a Friday evening dinner there as we never knew how long the wait would be.  Recently, they opened a second floor dining space - Esquina 2.0 - which accommodates about 25 diners and we were lucky enough to snag a table here on a weekend evening.

The Esquina menu is printed onto a simple paper placemat and divided into six sections: Snacks, Soil, Sea, Land, Desserts and Drinks with each section listing about half  dozen choices.  On that evening, there were three of us for dinner and we shared many small plates, making sure to order a few from each section. 

We started out with a bottle of Cape Roca Fisherman Tejo red along with a couple of Snacks: the warm thyme and onion bread served with smoked bone marrow butter (individual popover-like rolls were served with a couple of bone marrows which we slathered onto the hot bread), the pork crackling, salt cod and smoked herring roe - a modern version where pork crackling seem like a large cracker (like a pork krupuk) topped with several dots of salt cod mousse and roe - this was more form than substance, it tasted fine but was a bit too much for so little and the classic jamon croquetas - no tricks here, just the usual breadcrumbed creamy b├ęchamel with jamon Iberico bits.  From Soil, we had the salt-baked beetroot with whipped burrata, truffle honey and a raspberry pine nut crumble - thinly sliced beetroot over creamy bur rata made smoky sweet from the truffle honey - exceptional flavors which made modern with the addition of the raspberry pine nut "soil" (full disclaimer - I'm not a fan of endless foams and soils in food).  From Sea, we had the and excellent seared sea bass with the chorizo black paella and some kind of foam (could it have been olive?).  From Land, the roasted duck breast with carrot escabeche and tarragon citrus couscous topped by another pork "krupuk-style" crackling and the roasted lamb loin with sweet garlic puree, salsify and broad beans which we shared a large side of chorizo paella with chorizo "soil".  For Dessert, we had the chocolate mousse with chocolate soil (again) and vanilla churros along with a Manchego cheese custard, black olive, brioche crumbs (more soil) and apricot jam.   All in all, an enjoyable meal.  I just wish they didn't overdo the soils and foams.  Often, food can still be fun without being overly-gimmicky.

16 Jiak Chuan Road
Singapore 089267
Telephone: +65 6222 1616

*Open for lunch Mondays to Fridays for lunch from 12:00 to 2:30, Dinner from Mondays to Saturdays 6:00 to 10:30, Closed Sundays
*Dinner Tasting Menu for $130++ (nine small plates)
*Supperclub Menu for $120++ (eight small plates)

Thursday, July 10, 2014


To finish off my long-delayed posts on Moscow is a list of a few restaurants I went to that I really enjoyed. Most are located either in the center or just off the garden ring road.  Here they are in no particular order:

Moloko Cafe
Ulitsa Bolshaya Dimitrovka 7/5
Telephone: +7495 692 0309
*Open 24 hours daily

Moloko Cafe used to be a state milk store hence the name (moloko means milk in Russian).  Interiors are modern - great velvet chairs line each side of the room with a large bar in the middle.  There's a good crowd of expats and locals and not everyone is dressed to the nines.  We came for lunch on a Sunday and the place was half-full with mostly young Russian couples and their kids.  We shared a starter of smoked mackerel on baby potatoes followed by the sea bass in red curry for me and the beef stroganoff with mashed potatoes for A.  Food was fine and service was friendly, the only downside was the dessert which seemed store-bought.  As it's open 24 hours, I'm sure that there is a pre-club crowd that hangs out for cocktails and a post-clubbing crowd who come for breakfast before heading back home at dawn.

Kuznetsky Most 79
Telephone: +7495 623 1701
*Open weekdays from 8:30 a.m. till late, Weekends from noon to midnight

Another concept from the Novikov group, Vogue Cafe is a modern, bright space with a black and white interior with some color brought in with the large framed model shots on the walls and shelves of Vogue magazines.  Food is modern European Russian-style which means Italian or Mediterranean with some sushi and sashimi thrown in.  The combination works though as the place is crowded on most days with fashion-conscious Muscovites enjoying the Euro-inspired menu.  Its' location alongside trendy department store Tsum also helps.  We had a decent mixed salad, a penne arrabbiata and a pappardelle with cepes.

Ulitsa Neglinnaya 8/10
Telephone: +8495 621 90 80
*Open weekdays from 8:00 till midnight and weekends from 11:00 a.m. till midnight
Other branches on Ulitsa Ostrozhenka 3/14 and Kutuzovsky Avenue 2/1

We stumbled into Il Forno on a cold windy evening on our first night in Moscow since it was on the same street as our hotel not expecting anything special and we were pleasantly surprised with the pizza and the service.  We had a salad to share and some pizzas on one evening and pasta on another night.  The menu has classic Italian pastas, risottos and pizzas and a few meat and fish main courses.  It's a casual restaurant with a proper brick-oven which makes the pizzas perfect.

Maly Kozinsky Pereulok, 10
Telephone: +7916 336 26 33
*Open 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily

In hip and happening Patriarch's Pond, Brownie Cafe is a tiny. welcoming place owned by the Friends Forever group, which has a dozen hip cafes specializing in cakes and coffee.  This newest addition which opened in February of this year,  has a retro vibe with it's multi-colored chairs, communal wood tables and large display case filled with all sorts of cakes and sweets.  We shared two - a chocolate raspberry cake and a strawberry shortcake with excellent coffee.  I dare you to enter and not have a slice of cake.

Wednesday, July 09, 2014


Moscow's restaurant scene is still growing and the other group responsible for this is Ginza Project.  Hot on the heels of the Novikov restaurant group, Ginza project currently manages forty restaurants including the franchise for Paul

Williams (or as the Russians call it - Uilliams) is located in  Patriarshiy Prudy (Patriarch's Pond), which was made famous in Mikhail Bulgakov's cult novel The Master and Margarita and has since become Moscow's hip and happening neighborhood.  Just off the garden ring road, the small streets surrounding the pond are now home to cool cafes, funky boutiques and high-end restaurants which also means that it is now achingly cool live here and many of Moscow's bright young things do.

The place is small and rustic - wooden floors and simple metal-edged tables in the front where the in crowd sits and a smaller back area where a few tables are placed.  The restaurant's piece de resistance is the open kitchen showcasing a large red rotisserie where all the action takes place.  The menu is modern European (some Italian, some French) with a some bruschetta, salads, soups, risotto, pasta, plus meat either from the grill or the rotisserie along with some side dishes and a few daily specials.  They have a separate breakfast menu and unusual for Moscow - a good selection of vegetarian dishes.

A late lunch one day with the girls was a bruschetta of crab, avocado and sprouts and a plate of grilled vegetables followed by a delicious pasta special - spaghetti with a fresh tomato sauce.  Fresh warm bread is served in a brown paper bag along with a complimentary plate of beet hummus.  On our last day in Moscow  A and I went back for Sunday brunch after a morning of sightseeing where we had a creamy roasted eggplant, tomato and mozzarella bruschetta and shared a rigatoni with veal ragu and a pappardelle with wild mushrooms and cream.  If I lived in Moscow, this is where I would go for a simple dinner on a weekday or brunch on the weekend just as much for the food as for the people-watching.

Malaya Bronnaya 20A
Telephone: +7495 650 64 62
*Open daily from 10:30 a.m. till late

Tuesday, July 08, 2014


Cafe Pushkin is housed in a newly-built mansion just off Pushkin square whichhas successfully recreates a Russian aristocrat's home from the 1800's from the wood panelling to the heavy furniture, the chandeliers and the candlelit tables, the plaster and moldings on the ceilings and even the waiters dressed in period outfits making it feel like we were having dinner during the time of Anna Karenina.

Opened in 1999, the restaurant is spread out on three floors with the cafe-like Drugstore hall on the ground floor serving more casual fare and the restaurant on the upper floors called the Library hall with a more extensive and pricier menu.

Our good friends Farina and Satesh invited us to dinner there since they really wanted me to experience Cafe Pushkin and see what Moscow became right after I left in 1997.    They went all out to welcome A and I and we did a classic Russian dinner starting out with Russky Standard vodka with beluga caviar and blinis.  The first bite of the salty black pearls popping in my mouth with the warm pillowy blinis and cold smetana (sour cream) brought me back to the Russia I fell in love with and the ice-cold shot of vodka that followed reminded me of when I was young and adventurous.  As a start to a Moscow meal, nothing beats that.

We shared a few hot appetizers - julienne, the classic white mushrooms baked in sour cream made more luxurious with the addition of chanterelles followed by piroshki, traditional meat pies.  Four our main courses - Farina and I shared large plate of pelmenis - meat and mushroom filled dumplings served with a bit of broth, sour cream and vinegar, Satesh had the roast chicken and A had the kotlety pozharski - a breaded veal cutlet stuffed with mushrooms served with fried potatoes which we enjoyed with a bottle of Carmenere.  Dinner was delicious and it was definitely the best Russian food we had in Moscow and the company of Farina and Satesh helped made the evening memorable.  Even the weather cooperated to give us a full Russian experience as the streets were covered in fresh white snow when we left the restaurant.

Tverskoy Bulvar 26A
Telephone: +7495 739 0033
*Open 24 hours daily

Monday, July 07, 2014


The Moscow restaurant scene has certainly evolved since the deep, dark, post-perestroika nineties with two main restaurant groups (Novikov and Ginza) filling the city with all sorts of restaurant concepts.  Roni is part of the pioneer Novikov Restaurant Group (from Arkady Novikov) who started it all with Sirena (which already existed when I lived in Moscow) and now has an empire with almost 50 restaurants, food and beverage concepts (including the franchise for Krispy Kreme) and even Novikov TV which runs a never-ending loop of images and events on television screens which seems to be a typical Moscow restaurant accessory.

Roni is located on Petrovka street (where the only club on that street in the early nineties was Marika).  Interiors are dark and modern with a large black and red chandelier serving as a focal point in the center of a square room with lanterns and black and white photographs.  The open kitchen is on one side of the room alongside the bar where open shelves showcase Asian ingredients - bottles of chili sauce, oyster sauce, noodles - while open crates line the counter filled with dried chills and different spices.

I ate there twice in a week  - once for lunch with girlfriends on a snowy day and again for dinner with A after an evening at the Bolshoi.  Both times, the food was good, the atmosphere fun and the crowd interesting.  Malaysian chef Mamu heads the kitchen and although the food is a melange of Asian cuisines catering mostly to what Russians like, it surprisingly works. For lunch, we shared several appetizers - a tuna tartar, some sashimi, seared scallops,  fried gyoza and a wonderful salad mixed with crunchy duck in with a sesame-based dressing.   For dinner, we had some miso soup, sweet and spicy fried chicken, tuna tataki and fried rice.  It worked and gave us a much-needed Asian fix in Moscow.

Ulitsa Petrovka 20/1
Telephone: +7495 625 2606

Saturday, May 24, 2014


The Kremlin is the center of it all.  Recently, they implemented an online system for buying tickets and it's first weekend trial was when we there but we did it the old way - get in line and try and snag a ticket as the entries are limited and scheduled.  You can do full-priced ticket which includes the Armory museum, the three cathedrals (Annunciation, Assumption and Archangels), Ivan the great's bell tower, the Patriarch's Palace or opt for several cheaper ticket options which is just for the grounds and Cathedral square usually bought by Russians or locals who like to walk around the Kremlin drink the weekends.  The ticket for the diamond exhibit, which is also in the Armory, is sold separately inside the museum. Be patient as the ticket seller is a babushka who hardly speaks English and there are hardly any signs in English so use sign language and figure it out.  My rusty Russian helped a bit but not much.  Ticket booths open at 9:30 for the first entry at 10:00.  Once you have your ticket, get in the long line and wait until the Kremlin gates open - this took about 45 minutes to an hour.  Once inside, head straight to the armory which is filled with Russian state regalia, ceremonial vestments and crowns and all the precious metals from jeweled crowns to state silver service which should take about an hour.  After that, we walked out towards Cathedral square which gives one a 360 degree view of the three cathedrals and Ivan the great's bell tower.  After a short wander around, we exited towards Manezhnaya Ploshad (Manezh square) to the cobblestoned red square and walked towards the Kremlin clock tower and the iconic St. Basil's cathedral.

It was about time for lunch so after a short tour of red square, we escaped the cold (3C) and entered GUM - the State department store, now fully renovated and filled with high-end boutiques.  When I left in 1997, GUM was just starting to be renovated and was still a mix of Benetton (one of the first Western labels present in Russia) and Russian style shops.  Now, it's a bright, modern shopping mall housed in an architectural marvel from the 1890's filled with upwardly mobile Russians and a few tourists.  We went up to the second floor where we got in another line (remnants of Communist times) to have lunch at Stolovaya No.57 -  a retro Russian-style self-serve cafeteria complete with white lab coat uniformed counter staff dishing out potato salad and smoked fish, borscht and chicken Kiev, pierogi and black bread.  Even the drinks are authentic - from an ice-cold piva (beer) to a kitschy vending machine dispensing super fizzy Russian sparkling water by the glass.  I had the classic chicken Kiev with mashed potatoes while A had a slab of roast pork with cranberry sauce and a beet and smoked fish salad.

From there, we continued our walk around the center and headed towards Tversakaya street, known by its' former name as Gorky street.  Just like GUM, this busy street is now home to luxury hotels and shops but still retains something of the old Moscow.  We visited Yeliseyevsky Gastronom (Yeliseyevsky food store) which used to allow access only to Communist party elite.  This food hall was always a gastronomic mecca but more so today that the shelves are filled to the brim with everything from fresh raspberries to French lentils as well as a large glass case stacked with tins and tins of edible black pearls, caviar.

Another day should be devoted to the Pushkin museum - housed in three buildings - the main one on (Volkhonka street 12) in the center for ancient artifacts, sculpture and 18th century European art, the smaller one on the right (Volkhonka street 10) for private collections and the adjacent one on the left (Volkhonka street 14) for 19th and 20th century art.  We visited the main building on one day and I returned another day with N to visit the Impressionists which was a visual pleasure - rooms and rooms of Monets, Renoirs, Pissarros, Degas, Gaugins and Van Goghs.  

Just in front is the gigantic gold-domed Christ the Saviour cathedralreconstructed in the late nineties then continue onwards to the pedestrian bridge to cross the Moscow river to the other embankment and walk around what used to be the Krasny Oktyabr (Red October) Chocolate Factory - converted into an urban center with cafes and restaurants, design offices and the Lumiere Brothers Photo gallery showcasing Soviet-era photographs with a cafe and an interesting gift shop, sorely lacking at the Pushkin museum and the Kremlin.

Last but not least the Bolshoi is essential, preferably to watch a ballet in the historical stage or an opera at the new stage or at the very least a tour.  After a six year renovation, the theater which opened in 1856 has retained the gold rococo interiors and red velvet seats but the sound system and acoustics have been updated.  We were able to get tickets for the premier of Alexandre Dumas'  La Dame aux Camellias - a ballet in three acts on the historical stage.   The experience of an evening at the Bolshoi should not be missed and was the best way to spend our last evening in Moscow.