MOJO'S FLYING BURRITOS

A few months back, we went to pick up our 10-year old from a sleepover in Seminyak and met up with him at Mojo's Flying Burritos.  It's down an alley off Petitenget and is really just an open-air shack at the side of the road.  You can't miss it with it's brightly painted walls and colorful chairs and tables.

Menu is simple: burritos of course then tacos (both on soft flour or crispy corn tortillas), quesadillas and enchiladas.  We've been back a few times since and haven't been disappointed.  We always enjoy the freshly-made guacamole or salsa with warm corn tortillas and their carne asada tacos which come with rice and a side of black beans.  

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Mojo's Flying Burritos

Jalan Petitenget, Gang Prana

(watch out for the sign on the side of the road)

Seminyak

Telephone: +62 361 730260

*Open daily from 9:00a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Other branches in Poppies Lane Kuta and in Ubud on Jalan Raya Ubud

Fast Food

It's the middle of the summer holidays and the kids are bored - what to do?  We've been to the beach almost every day, to the new play area Cubby House in Seminyak, to Ubud on day trips and to the Bali Galleria's Time Zone, eaten lots of ice cream and tried several fast food places.  Here they are.

MM JUICE

I first tried this fast food restaurant at the food court of the Carrefour on Sunset road.  After a morning spent grocery shopping, my son and I spotted the juice sign and decided to have a fresh mango juice which was wonderful.  We were all set to get some takeaway pizza from the PepeNero stand when we noticed that all of the tables in front of MM Juice were full so we sat down and shared a Nasi Goreng special - fried rice with sausage and chicken and topped with a fried egg and served with some achar and melinjo crackers.  It was a surprising find - the food was freshly cooked and delicious and the service quick.

They have another branch at the Bali Galleria which is more like a restaurant with brightly-colored wooden tables in an air-conditioned space.  We had lunch there a few days ago and this time, I ordered the stir-fried beef kway teow (flat rice noodles) which was a large portion of flavorful fried noodles with chunks of beef and egg - a satisfying lunch for such a reasonable price.  Fast and cheap food.

WARUNG BUNANA

Another little spot I've been meaning to try is the stand just at the end of Jalan Danau Poso which we pass often on our way home.  There is a large sign advertising Roti Canai (flat bread) & Teh Tarik (milky tea).  They also have a few other branches around - one of which is in Seminyak.  I finally stopped by the other day and ordered one portion of plain roti which was rolled out, slapped around and cooked to order right in front of me.   I took it home and opened the brown paper package of hot flaky bread which came with the standard curry dip.  Perfect as an afternoon snack and again, another cheap and cheerful place.

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MM Juice

Carrefour Food court on Sunset Road

Bali Galleria Food court area, ground floor

Warung Bunana

At the Sanur bypass just at the end of Jl. Danau Poso

On the Kerobokan road, Seminyak

CAMPUR CAMPUR

We've been living in Bali for over a year now and as you can imagine, the months have just flown by.  I suddenly realized that it was about time I got out there and tried a few more warungs (simple roadside eateries) for a taste of Indonesian street food aside from the famous ones I've been to: Naughty Nuri's, Made's Warung and Ibu Oka.

Caught in the usual traffic jam at the Simpang Siur roundabout, T and I decided to take a break and try Campur Campur (the one nearest to the roundabout, there is another one further up the Sunset road).  It's the one that's right by the bypass on the left-hand side of the road going to Seminyak with the large orange sign that says Makan Yuuk!!!!

We arrived at around noon and there were already several tables taken, always a good sign as it means that the turnover is high and the food is fresh.  There is a glassed-in counter near the front for rojak which is sliced tropical fruits drizzled with a spicy palm sugar sauce and another larger glass-enclosed counter at the far end where the prepared food is displayed.  There were many dishes on display - mostly different vegetables but also a few main courses - fried fish and fried chicken smothered in spicy sauce.  We chose three items from the display: caramelized tempeh (soya bean cake) that was in bite-size chunks, traditional deep-fried corn cakes and stir-fried kangkung with chili which came with a small portion of spicy sambal.  We also asked for a portion of sate ayam (chicken satay) which is grilled-to-order right near the entrance in the typical grill-stall-on-wheels that street food vendors use all over Asia.

The vegetables were tasty, although less than lukewarm, which is the typical way food is served in warungs.  Our platter of chicken satay, about eight skewers, came smothered in a spicy chunky peanut sauce drizzled with kecap manis, the ubiquitous sweet soy sauce used in lots of Indonesian dishes.  They were smoky and delicious and the vegetables were the best accompaniment.   A simple meal that was surprisingly good.  When I mentioned to another friend that I had lunch at Campur Campur, she said that I should try their delicious sop buntut (ox-tail soup) so I guess I'll be back there sooner rather than later.

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Warung Makan Campur Campur

(Bu Widya)

Jl. Sunset, Simpang Siur, Blok C

Telephone: +62 361 766 291

and

Jl. Sunset, Seminyak 18X

Telephone: +62 361 847 5939

The Best of 2010

Another year zoomed by and now it's the start of a new decade.  2010 was a year of travel for us, not just for holidays (Las Vegas, Singapore, Manila, Miami, Buenos Aires, Jogjakarta) but a big move too from Marbella to Bali.  Since there were so many places visited, choosing the best of 2010 wasn't easy but after several edits, here they in no particular order. Happy New Year and here's to more gourmet travel in 2011!

BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK - Menega Cafe (Bali)

Sand, sea and al fresco dining are what make Jimbaran beach special.  From the many open-air restaurants that offer much of the same, Menega Cafe stands out from the rest.  The fish is fresh, the service pretty good and the place is always packed.  Head here for a sunset drink and a simple meal of grilled fish and seafood.  Don't forget to have a few freshly-grilled corn on the cob from the vendors on the beach - here is street, or rather beach, food at its' best.

BEST ICE CREAM - Gaya Gelato (Ubud)

I just had to add this.  A tiny place in Ubud that serves (in my opinion) the best gelato on the island.  Fresh flavors that vary depending on the season.  My favorites are espresso and mango, when they have it.  A loves the chocolate orange and J, the dark chocolate.  Say hello to Massimo, the friendly owner, have a scoop and sit outside at one of their cool ceramic tables. 

BEST WARUNG - Ibu Oka (Ubud)

This tiny, bare warung (roadside eatery) near Ubud's main temple bring the crowds in for their very limited menu.  Only one thing is on it, babi guling (Balinese-style roast pig) served in all ways possible.  A single meal portion will set you back a few dollars and comes with steamed white rice, spicy jack fruit and green beans, a few chunks of blood sausage, slices of roast pork in spices topped with a piece of pork crackling.  Grab a space on the floor, sit down and eat.

BEST BISTRO - SIP (Seminyak)

Bali's most authentic french bistro.  Unfussy dishes, a fantastic wine list and the presence of deux Francais running the show.  Add to that red leather banquettes, large mirrors for people watching and faultless, friendly service. Go for the steak au poivre or the warm goat's cheese salad or the duck in green peppercorn sauce - whatever you have will be good and keep you coming back for more of the same.

BEST COFFEE - The Tuck Shop at the Cornerstore (Seminyak)

I don't know what it is about Australians and coffee but it seems that they have mastered the subtle art of coffee and can give the Italians a run for their money.  The Tuck Shop is Australian-owned, tiny and found inside a boutique but don't let that fool you, the coffees at this place are addicting - espresso, macchiato, flat white, cappuccino - they are all very, very good.  I sometimes go on the twenty-minute drive to get there just to have a coffee. There is also a small menu of sandwiches and salads along with some cool clothes and surfer wear.

BEST WINE - 1996 Romanee Saint-Vivant Grand Cru (Joseph Drouhin)

The best thing about having a mom who's a wine importer is being able to ask for special wines for special occasions.  On Thanksgiving, we celebrated with a babi guling from Ibu Oka (see above for best warung) and some grand cru wines from my mom's collection.  This grand cru pinot noir from Burgundy's famed Vosne-Romanee was perfection.  A few weeks after Thanksgiving we had our first dinner party and shared our last two bottles of Romanee Saint-Vivant with some appreciative friends.

BEST BREAKFAST - Jones the Grocer (Singapore)

This was a tough one as a really good breakfast is often hard to find.  In Singapore's hip and happening Dempsey Hill is Jones the Grocer (another Aussie import) where the coffees are good, the cuisine simple and the ingredients top-notch.  I've been several times for breakfast, once for lunch and a few times for a quick afternoon snack.  It's expensive but worth it.   The deli and cheese selection are topnotch and their pains au chocolat, the best ones I've had in a long time.  (They've also opened another branch on Orchard road at the Mandarin Gallery.)

BEST COMFORT FOOD - Michael's Genuine Food and Drink (Miami)

Tucked in Miami's up and coming Design District, Michael's serves large portions of American comfort food that seem deceptively simple but are actually a wonderful mix of well-sourced ingredients.  For example, a steak salad is not just a salad but one that includes Harris Ranch skirt steak and heirloom tomatoes.  Desserts from their in-house pastry chef are the best I've had this year.  My favorite was the pucker-your-mouth lemon meringue tart with buttermilk sherbet.  It's comfort food in a casual setting.

BEST DIM SUM - Din Tai Fung (Singapore)

Always packed with both locals and expats queueing for their consistently good dim sum.  Check-in with the hostess, grab a tiny clipboard, place your order then wait for your number to be called.  As soon as you're seated, the food starts coming out - lots of steam baskets filled with one-of-a-kind dumplings, sweet and savory buns and a few other stir-fried dishes come out of their open kitchen.  It's a bit chaotic but it works and the food is always the same.

BEST FRENCH - L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (Las Vegas)

My best French meal (and most expensive) in 2009 was Joel Robuchon.  No surprises in 2010 as my best meal was at his much more reasonably-priced and more hip, L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. (This was our second meal in his Vegas outpost and we had been to the one in Paris when it first opened years ago.)  The food is traditional with a twist and come served in small portions, tapas-style.  Each mouthful was a revelation.  This is one of those meals that you wish you could have at least once a year (which is why we might be back when we're in Vegas next week).  French but not stuffy, classic but fun and above all really, really good.

BEST JAPANESE - Akanoya Robatayaki (Singapore)

Noisy, informal counter restaurant that is almost like having a meal in a market.  This is as close as you'll get to what's on your plate.  Ingredients (vegetables, fish, seafood and meat) are displayed on crushed ice right in front of you.  No menu is offered.  Just ask, point and order.  All the food is cooked on a robata (Japanese-style charcoal grill) and is served directly from the grill onto a long wooden paddle that the grill man places in front of you.  Interactive dining at it's best but with amazing flavors.  Great for a family dinner with kids or for a quick meal.  Ignore the loud shouts in Japanese which happen for all sorts of reasons and just enjoy the food.

BEST MARKET MEAL - Salcedo Saturday Market (Manila)

Weekly market right in the middle of Makati, Manila's chi-chi business district.  Food of all kinds - organic fruits and vegetables, Philippine delicacies, roast pig, homemade jams, barbecue - sold in open stalls.  Some of these food items are only available here every week and since they come from all over, it's a good way to get to know Filipino cuisine and take home a few goodies or enjoy a takeaway lunch on one of the benches nearby.  Prepare for the heat, get there early, bring a basket and make sure you're hungry.

BEST THAI - People's Palace (Manila)

Fantastic Thai food in Greenbelt, Makati's swishest boutique row.  The food is always good,  the flower arrangements are always large, the place is always packed and the service is always friendly.  It's the best Thai restaurant in Manila.

BEST GOURMET TRAVEL - Borobudur (Jogjakarta)

The most impressive ancient temple I've ever seen, our short break to Jogjakarta was my 40th birthday present.  Not only was our room at the Amanjiwo amazing but the temple was visible from our large terrace.  After a 4:00 a.m. wake-up call and a trek up Borobudur to watch the sunrise, we had a private gourmet picnic on nearby Dagi hill with the temple looming in the distance.  My birthday dinner was a romantic diner a deux in a dirt-floored Javanese joglo (wooden home) with just candles to light the meal, live gamelan music in the background and simple grilled Indonesian specialties.  And who said that turning 40 was going to be difficult?

MADE'S WARUNG

When friends and family come to visit, they always ask to be taken to an authentic Balinese restaurant and although there are several, very few have lasted the test of time.  Made's Warung is one of these places that haven't really changed since they opened and hasn't been affected much by the gentrification and overall hipness of Seminyak.  They still serve the same simple Indonesian dishes that they've been serving since 1969 in the same basic interiors that  keep to the whole warung concept. What's a warung (also spelled waroeng)?  It's usually a family-run business where there is a simple open-air eating area and Made's is exactly that.

We arrived for a late lunch one Saturday (after not having been since 2003).  I had heard that they were in the midst of renovating their Seminyak location but since we were on our way to Canggu, we decided to go to that one instead of the other one in Kuta.  The place was a bit chaotic with scaffolding and some construction going on but the atmosphere hadn't changed - still the same mix of locals and tourists, dressed casually and making lots of noise.  We ordered quickly from the extensive menu - sates for everyone (a portion each of chicken, beef and pork) which we all shared and a grilled whole snapper for A.  Food arrived quickly and without fuss and was as good as we expected for a warung. Nothing exceptional but pretty good for what you pay for.   I've seen the drawings of what the new and improved Made's Warung will look like and I guess now I can say that it's going to be "Seminyak-ified" with modern interiors which will change the look a lot but hopefully keep some of the warung spirit of old colored tiles and casual ambiance.

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Made's Warung

Br. Seminyak, Kuta, Bali

+62 361 732 130

*Open daily for lunch and dinner

Another branch in Br. Pande Mas, Kuta (+62 361 755 297)

IBU OKA

In every city, there are places that can't be missed.  In Bali, there is a foodie pilgrimage that has to be made and that is at Ubud's Ibu Oka.  This is THE dive that Anthony Bourdain made famous in his No Reservations episode on Bali.  It's still in the same spot it's always been and no renovations have been made (yet) so it's still pretty authentic.

Our blogger/foodie friends from Eat The World, Kiko and Maria, were in Bali on the Southeast Asian tour of their round-the-world trip and we thought it would be a good idea to go to Ibu Oka with them and taste why their Babi Guling (roast pig) was such a big deal.  We met up with them at another Bali institution, Kopi Bali, which I think has the best coffee on the island, near our new home (yes, we finally found a place to live).  After a quick espresso, we headed up North towards Ubud passing all the little villages on the way with each one specializing on a particular craft - stone carving, wood carving, basket making etc. - but we skipped all that and went straight to Ibu Oka.

Just past Ubud's monkey forest and diagonally across the street from the royal temple is this roadside stand/warung that dishes out paper-lined baskets of roast pork all day long.  We arrived after 1 p.m.  and since it was mid-week, there were no busloads of tourists queuing up for lunch on that day.  They say that on weekends you need to get there before noon as they run out of pigs really fast.  On that day, the place was full and although there wasn't a line snaking out the door, there was a crowd right by the stall, buying roast pig to-go.

After ogling the whole crispy-skinned pig near the entrance, we left our flip-flops in the large pile on the steps and went in to try and find a spot to sit.  There were about 10 wooden tables lined up with the floors covered in mats and everyone sitting cross-legged, side-by-side eating loads of roast pig.  We had to sit separately as there were no more places for four so Kiko and Maria went off to the middle row while A and I sat at a corner table facing the wall-mounted menu.  We placed our orders quickly for two plates of Nasi (rice) + Babi Guling spesial (roast pig) for 25,000 Indonesian Rupiahs or around US$2.50 a plate. While waiting, we opened a few packets of the deep-fried delicacies stacked up in a plastic container in every table - krupuk (prawn crackers), melinjo crackers, pork cracklings.  Despite the mess, crowd and confusion, the waitstaff knew exactly what they were doing and we got our orders not long afterwards. The two paper-lined baskets were identically stacked with steamed white rice, topped with thin slices of roast pork meat, a piece of crispy pork skin, a mound of spicy green beans and a few chunks of pork sausage. 

Was it good?  Yes!  Was it worth the trip up to Ubud? Yes again.  We enjoyed it so much that we decided to order another basket of just slices of roast pork meat.  This time it was better as there were several thin slices of roast pork drizzled with the drippings and topped with an even larger piece of crackling.  At this point, the restaurant was still full and there were still people standing around waiting for a place to sit, and as it's quite uncomfortable to sit cross-legged on the floor, we did a "dine and dash" and gave up our little spot to pay at the cashier.  As we searched four our flip-flops in the growing mound of slippers and shoes on our way out, a motorcycle came chugging by with two men on it, one driving and the other balancing a metal tray with a whole roasted pig on his head.  I missed that photo but that's what Bali is all about - fleeting moments of interesting photo and food opportunities, if you look really hard and pay attention to what's going on around you.  Ibu Oka is one of those so get there if you can.

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Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka 

Jalan Tegal Sari 2

Ubud, Bali

Telephone: +62 361 976 345

NAUGHTY NURI'S

Last weekend, we went up to Ubud for the day to see a few places.  First stop was Gaya Ceramics on the main road where we spent most of the morning chatting with Marcello and Miki about their amazing work and seeing the ceramics being made.  Next stop was a tour of the Como Shambhala estate which was impressive - the location right by the river gorge and the feeling of being completely surrounded by nature. Trekking up and down the property made us hungry which is what brought us to our penultimate stop - lunch at Ubud's infamous Naughty Nuri's Warung .

Naughty Nuri's is well-known for its' killer martinis, rowdy mix of expats and locals and barbecued ribs and this is what we went there for.  The place was packed - communal tables filled with groups enjoying cold bottles of  Bintang and plates of their famous ribs.  As soon as we found a space, we sat at on one of the benches and placed our order - two ribs, one mashed potato, one rice, two iced teas.  While waiting for our ribs which were being grilled right behind me on the roadside barbecue, we watched the crowd around us enjoy their lunch and fanned ourselves silly.  Soon enough, two plates of sticky-looking rib racks with half a lime were plonked onto the wooden table along with a bowl of garlicky-mash and another of steamed rice.  We squirted the lime juice onto the piping hot ribs and dug in.  Were they good? Yes!  Was it worth the trip and the heat? Yes again! There were lots of people standing around waiting to sit so after our lunch, we did as the large sign near the front said "Eat, Pay Leave."  Naughty Nuri's is a dive, one with a sense of humor and delicious ribs. 

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Naught Nuri's

(Across the road from Neka Museum)

Jl. Raya Sanggingan

Ubud, Bali
Telephone: +62 361 977 547
Open daily from 8am - 10pm