EL TARDEO

El Tardeo, is the newish tapas bar owned and managed by next-door  Binomio, our favorite Spanish restaurant in Singapore.  Open from the late afternoon  for the Spanish tapas-bar-hopping habit called "tapeo" (the name is a mix  of "tarde" meaning afternoon and "tapeo"), El Tardeo's interiors are simple with a large bar on one end and several bar tables scattered throughout the concrete-floored space.  

El Tardeo's menu is a mix of cold and hot pintxos and tapas, cold cuts and a few salads and main courses with an extensive cocktail and drinks list highlighting the trendy Spanish pre-dinner drink, the gin tonic while sangria, beers,  Cava and Spanish wines.

On a recent mid-week visit, we stuck to sharing several small plates with a few glasses of a crisp Radio Boca verdejo from Valencia. We started out with the cold pintxo tortilla patata - layers of thinly sliced potatoes, covered in fluffy egg and topped with a tiny dollop of aioli (strangely served hot instead of cold),  a couple of hot pintxos - the zapatilla, thin slices of melt-in-the-mouth jamon on toasted bread rubbed with tomato and the cojonudo - grilled chorizo fried egg and a piquillo pepper.  This was followed by a few modern tapas: croquetas de calamares filled with squid ink flavored béchamel, the grilled secreto Iberico (surprisingly bland for a usually flavorful cut) and the outstanding bikini de rabo toro - tender oxtail sandwiched between a  crispy pancake-like covering.  We were still a bit hungry after that so we shared some pan con tomate and finished off our meal with an espresso.  El Tardeo is perfect for big groups at happy hour who want to sample tasty tapas with drinks, but if it's dinner you're after, book a table at next-door Binomio instead.

_____________________________

El Tardeo

20 Craig Road, Craig Place #01-01

Singapore 089692

Telephone: +65 6221 6288

SMS: +65 8181 1829

Email: reservation@eltardeo.sg

*Tuesday to Saturday 6 pm to midnight, Sunday from 11 to 6 pm, Closed Mondays

THE KNOLLS SUNDAY BRUNCH

One of the first weekend brunches we tried in Singapore was at The Knolls in the Capella hotel.  Located right beside the terraced pools of the hotel, The Knolls is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner and brunch on Sundays.  

Brunch is a gastronomic affair with a large seafood buffet (fresh oysters, king prawns and scallops), mini-seafood and meat appetizers, an assortment of fresh bread and salads with fresh burrata on the buffet.  The Mediterranean-inspired hot dishes change every Sunday and include - freshly pizzas with shaved truffles, roasted suckling pig, seafood paella, grilled sausages and lamb or beef skewers, assorted grilled vegetables and a roast meat.  There is also an amazing three-tier cheese cart served by a cheese expert who guides you through the day's choices.  Desserts are plentiful as well with pastries, cakes and an ice cream cart all served in individual portions which gives one the chance to try several sweets instead of just one.  There is a free flow of mineral water and soft drinks included in the price and an option to have free flow of champagne and wines or just wines is also possible.  It's a great way to get away and spend a long, leisurely lunch by the pool with a view of the sea and with live music in the background.  Sundays in Sentosa at the Capella brunch is like a mini-holiday from the hustle and bustle of Orchard road.

__________________________________________
The Knolls
Capella Singapore
1 The Knolls, Sentosa
098297 Singapore
Telephone: +65 6591 5046
*Open daily for breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner. 
*Brunch on Sundays from 12:30 to 3:30 p.m.
(Brunch includes soft drinks, mineral water, coffee and tea) 
$168++ per Adult with free flow Champagne and wines
$148++ per adult with free flow of wines
$128++ per adult for food only
$78++ per child (7-12 years old)
$48++ per child (4-6 years old)

1919 at the Condado Vanderbilt

The historical Condado Vanderbilt hotel in San Juan was built in 1919 by Frederick William Vanderbilt    and reopened recently with 323 rooms and a gourmet restaurant 1919 (named after the year the hotel was built).  1919 showcases the cuisine of Puerto Rico using organic and local ingredients.  The kitchen is headed by chef Juan Jose Cuevas, a Puerto Rican and C.I.A. graduate who worked in Spain at El Raco de Can Fabes with chef Santi Santamaria and in New York at Essex House with Didier Elena and Blue Hill at Stone Barns with Dan Barber.

I was looking through Open Table for a new restaurant when I stumbled upon the listing for 1919 which had only been open a few weeks.  I immediately booked a table for dinner that Friday.  We arrived to a half-full dimly-lit restaurant with modern interiors.  We were led to a table near the large picture glass windows which would have had a full view of the sea at lunch, but as it was in the evening we had the indoor garden and a coqui making its' nightly noises as company instead.  Luckily, the restaurant filled up soon after and the coqui got drowned out by the restaurant bustle.  Service was impeccable and seamless, the waiters were attentive and knew the menu well and the general manager was present to check that everything was going smoothly.

The dinner menu is labeled simply first (salads and starters), second (pasta and risotto), third (fish and meat main courses) and fourth (desserts) with a supplementary cheese course ($12). It is recommended to order the prix-fixe four-course menu ($70) but the dishes may also be ordered a la carte.  (There is also a three-course prix-fixe menu for lunch.)  We opted for the dinner prix-fixe and substituted the dessert course for the cheese course.  The wine list is on an iPad and was fun to look at with the numerous bottles and labels listed.  We settled for a glass of 2009 Fog Dog Pinot Noir for myself glass of 2009 Chablis from Joseph Drouhin for A.  Wines by the glass come served in a small carafe which makes for a generous measure.

For our first course, A had the white eggplant confit and I had the taste of tuna.  The eggplant confit came in a salad of sprouts and was topped by a crispy slice of jamon Iberico and green gazpacho - a creative dish with fresh flavors.  The taste of tuna was a trio of raw tuna prepared three ways - one with mozzarella caviar, another with pine-nuts and capers and the last with octopus and preserved lemons. This starter was less interesting than the eggplant confit as it was the typical raw tuna plate plus it was served so cold that I couldn't distinguish much of the flavors and all three pretty much tasted like cold raw tuna.

Second course was the local calabaza (squash) risotto for A and scallop a la plancha for me.  The risotto was sweet from the squash, tangy from the spinach and rich from the braised veal cheeks - a balanced enough dish but heavy as a mid-course.  My scallop a la plancha (scallop cooked on a griddle) came on top of local bok choy and an aromatic broth.  Although the single scallop was sweet and succulent, it sadly lacked the umami component as it didn't have the caramelized crust formed by searing in a hot pan.

A surprise third course was sent out by the chef which was the best dish that night - wild white salmon placed on top of broccoli, guanciale (unsmoked bacon made from pig cheeks) and green tomato jus.  Here the barely-cooked fish was perfect and the jus and vegetables that accompanied it were delicious as well.  A dish that was deliciously simple and simply delicious.

The main course was served next - terres major wagyu beef (supplement fo $10) for A and the evening's special, not on the menu, cochinillo for me.  The wagyu beef short ribs came with onion cream, stir-fried okra and a side dish or organic grains.  The meat was tender and flavorful and the accompanying okra and onion cream complemented the simply grilled meat.  The organic grains though, were hard to chew and tasted like uncooked wild rice.  The cochinillo was a quarter of a suckling pig with almost black crackling (a bit overcooked for my taste) and was good but not great while the accompanying charred baby lettuce was a nice way to cut the richness of this dish although it could have done without the accompanying bacon wrap as the whole plate was already filled with a large chunk of pork.

The cheese course came last - three cheeses: a hard manchego-like cheese, a soft local goat's cheese and oddly enough - fresh mozzarella (I've never seen this served as an after-dinner cheese course).  There was also a dollop of sweet guava jam and two types of bread: crusty bread (similar to pain de campagne) and a super sweet nut bread almost like a spiced banana nut bread which did not go with the cheese at all.  We ended the meal with espressos - overly roasted and bitter - which we didn't finish and left sated but unimpressed.  Perhaps another visit might prove to be more promising and we do intend to go back once the restaurant has been open for several months to give it another try.
___________________________
1919
Condado Vanderbilt Hotel
1055 Ashford Avenue
San Juan 00907
Puerto Rico
Phone: +1 787 724 1919
Reservations via Open Table
*Open for lunch Tuesdays to Fridays from 12 to 3 with a 3-course prix-fixe menu
*Open for dinner Tuesdays to Saturdays from 6 to 11 with a four-course prix fixe menu
*Closed Sundays and Mondays

IL NUOVO PERUGINO

Originally located in old San Juan, this authentic Italian restaurant opened 20 years ago by Franco Seccarelli has had a loyal following over the years.  Recently, he moved to a modern office tower in the city's financial district.  The cozy ambiance was lost as the new location is a glass-enclosed and wood-lined modern interior, but the food has remained the same - classic Italian dishes presented with fresh ingredients.  There is an Enoteca with a large bar, a superb wine list and simple tables for a casual meal and the adjacent main restaurant with white linen-covered tables and a more subdued atmosphere.

The selection changes with the seasons and when we went, there were a few heartier "winter" dishes like rabbit on the menu.  We settled on three appetizers to share: the goat cheese salad, baked aubergine and beef carpaccio.  Our meal began with warm ciabatta served with olive oil then an amuse bouche of cod croquette.

The beef carpaccio was perfect - paper thin slices of beef topped with the classic shards of Parmesan and spicy baby arugula.  The goat cheese salad was actually not a salad but a chunk of creamy warm goat's cheese served with fresh pesto and delicious spread on crispy bread.  I liked the tower of aubergines best - soft and smoky eggplant slices topped with melted cheese and accompanied by a light tomato sauce.

We all chose pasta for our second course - spinach and ricotta gnocchi for A, penne arrabbiata for J and the tagliolini amatricana for me.  The gnocchi were soft pillows of spinach flavored potato balls, surprisingly light yet creamy.  My tagliolini amatriciana was complemented with the flavor of the bacon, onions and tomatoes.  J's penne was a bit of a disappointment with the tomato sauce being tart rather than spicy.  We ended dinner with a shared tiramisu - o.k. but lacking in coffee flavor and the accompanying mush of soaked savoaiardi (ladyfingers).  The chef came over to say hello and we promised to be back another time, perhaps for lunch when I imagine the place would be bright and sunny.

_____________________________
Il Nuovo Perugino
Popular Center Atrium
2nd Floor
Hato Rey Financial District
Telephone: +1 787 722 5481
*Open for lunch Mondays to Fridays from 11:30 a.m.
*Open for dinner Tuesdays to Saturdays from 6:30 to 10:30 p.m.

Food, Wine and Art in Dorado Beach

On two occasions, A and I were invited to lunch at C and F's lovely home.  The well-designed space is bright and modern with direct views to the ocean and many wonderful art pieces prominently displayed in the gallery-like entrance hall and all over the house.  The table was set with striking cowhide place mats and colorful napkins in an enamel ring.  Several glasses were at each place setting signaling a tasting meal with matching wines.  Before sitting down to lunch, C gave us a short tour and explanation of the different art pieces and their provenance.

A Puerto-Rican themed lunch was organized by C and prepared by chef Jose from Zafra.  We began with ice-cold champagne rose and soon after for the first course of seared foie gras and banana - an interesting combination with the richness of the foie gras and the sweet banana coming together partnered with a glass of Chateau d'Yquem.  With the subsequent white wine, we had seared halibut atop a lighter version of mofongo made with yucca instead of the usual mashed plantains followed by a risotto con gandules (pigeon peas or tropical green peas), another typical Caribbean ingredient.  Then came the magnum of 1981 Vega Sicilia Unico - a velvety blend of tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon and a little bit of merlot  from the famed region of Ribera del duero which was served with the main course of seared tenderloin wrapped in a thin slice of crispy plantain still keeping with the Puerto-Rican influenced cuisine.  Last but not least was a light cheesecake served with guava sorbet and jelly which came with a shot of mango-flavored pitorro (Puerto Rican moonshine rum), a fitting end and digestif to the exquisite meal. 

Our second lunch at their home started with an amuse bouche of foie gras, prawn tempura and smoked salmon gravlax followed by a beautiful rendition of the classic caprese salad - one hollowed plum tomato filled with greens alongside several chunks of fresh mozzarella followed by mahi-mahi with mashed chickpeas.  Along with F's favorite wine, the Vega Sicilia unico, came two dishes: a slab of veal accompanied by mushroom sauce and apple chunks then seared skirt steak topped with baby vegetables including purple yam and a caramelized turnip.  To go along with the rest of the red wine was a molten milk chocolate dessert with guava sorbet.  This time lunch finished with a shot of Venezuelan reserve rum - Diplomatico.  Another one-of-a-kind meal from exceptional hosts who know how to live the good life with food, wine and art.

C and her cockatoo plus a few art pieces from their art collection.

CHELSEA MARKET

On my last day in New York, I met up with good friend, Brooklyn native and fellow foodie C, who said I couldn't leave the cit without stopping by Chelsea Market - which houses an enclosed food court with specialized food purveyors including a large Anthroplogie boutique, a Posman Books 

and a Bowery Kitchens, restaurant supply store where I finally found a large metal cake stand which I had long-admired in the Dean & DeLuca stores.  Also in the same building are the offices and production facilities of the Food Network which makes for a captive clientele of foodies who often lunch at the market.

We met right after noon and walked around the place scoping out the area and doing a tour of what was available before deciding on lunch from the specialty butcher Dicksons Farmstand  where the daily blackboard menu listed pulled pork, banh-mi, roast chicken and hot dogs.  C had the pulled pork sandwich and treated me to a banh-mi (a Vietnamese sandwich usually made with roasted pork belly) with caramelized ground pork stuffed in a soft baguette and topped with pickled cucumbers and carrots and lots of fresh cilantro along with a fizzy organic lemonade.  We managed to snag one of the few tables where we devoured our sandwiches before heading off in search of dessert.  

We finally ended up at Bar Suzette where we lined up for a takeaway lemon, butter and sugar crepe made with the pedigree ingredients of Ronnybrook Dairy Farm butter, fresh lemon juice and natural granulated sugar.  Wrapped up in a paper cone, we then exited onto to 16th street and climbed up to The High Line where we enjoyed our dessert while taking a stroll in one of the prettiest parks created out of an abandoned railway.  We grabbed a post-lunch coffee at the Blue Bottle stand where I had an espresso while C chose an iced coffee then we walked further on until we found a spot in the shade of The Standard Hotel and listened to a classical quartet while enjoying the summer breeze, the Hudson river views and several years of catching up. 

__________________________________________

Chelsea Market

75 Ninth Avenue (between 15th and 16th streets)

New York NY 10011

Telephone: +1 888 727 7887

*Open Monday to Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

The High Line

Telephone: +1 212 206 9922

*Open daily from 7 a.m to 10 p.m. 

Access from the following locations:

• Gansevoort Street
• 14th Street (elevator access)
• West 16th Street (elevator access)
• West 18th Street
• West 20th Street
• 23rd Street (elevator access)
• West 26th Street
• West 28th Street
• West 30th Street (elevator access)

D.O.C.G. ENOTECA

D.O.C.G. comes from Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, a label for the highest level of Italian wine origin and the name of Scott Conant's casual Las Vegas restaurant.  The restaurant is casual yet modern with exposed brick walls and a long bar on one side of the room.  The menu is classic trattoria fare with antipasti, salads, pizza, fresh pasta, share plates and mostly meat on the grill and an assortment of side dishes.  We were four for dinner on a weeknight and arrived early before the place filled up.

For starters, we ordered two to share: grilled octopus with chickpeas, tomatoes and basil plus the pork croquette, pig's feet stuffed in mashed potatoes and deep-fried.  The pork croquette was crispy and gooey but a bit bland and could have done with a spicy sauce but the octopus was delicious - grilled firm but not chewy octopus over warm seasoned chickpeas.  Our next course was their signature D.O.C.G. pizza of Fonduta, egg and truffles which was a disappointment.  What could have been a fantastic pizza with the classic combination of egg and truffle was a letdown because it was served lukewarm. so when they cracked the raw egg over the pizza, it didn't really cook and just made the pizza less warm.

Things got way better though with the fresh pastas.  We had the maccheroni with polpettine and home-style sugo and the cavatelli with sausage and Porcini mushrooms.  The maccheroni was al dente.  The sugo, a fantastic simple tomato sauce with meaty meatballs.  The cavatelli was also al dente and the rich and chunky sausage mushroom mix was rustic and delicious.  We also shared a salad of arugula with thinly sliced pears, Gorgonzola and pine nuts in a classic Balsamic vinaigrette along with a grilled rib-eye which was also a hit - perfectly seared and seasoned, charred on the outside, yet rare in the center that came with a towering side dish of hot crispy Tuscan fries tossed in Parmigiano and garlic.  Pastas and meat on the grill is what you should go for at D.O.C.G.

To end the meal, we shared one dessert - three scoops of gelato with four spoons so we could each have a bite. There was chocolate, hazelnut and pistachio and all three were a real letdown - creamy but with not enough flavor to differentiate one from the other.  Good thing that the espresso was a perfect shot of bitter coffee to finish the dinner. All in all a good experience and I would definitely go back for a bowl of fresh pasta and a glass of wine any day.

___________________________________

D.O.C.G. Enoteca

at the Cosmopolitan Resort

3078 Las Vegas Boulevard South

Las Vegas, Nevada

Tel: +1 702 698 7920

*Open daily for dinner from 5:30 to 10:30p.m.

MARMALADE

We had heard so much about Marmalade that when some friends organized a dinner there a few weeks ago, we readily agreed.  We went to Old San Juan on a Wednesday evening and after walking up and down Calle Foratleza, we finally found Marmalade.  We got there first so we waited at the bar for the other two couples to arrive.  As soon as they got there, we were led to a quiet corner table right by the wine cellar.  The cuisine at Marmalade is sort of modern Mediterranean with an extensive menu which they encourage you to try either in a four-course, five-course or six-course tasting menu.  There is also the Marmalade 10-course degustation which can be enjoyed with a matching wine per course.  We all thought that was too much food for a mid-week meal so five of us opted for the five-courses and one for the four-course menu.  The good thing is that each one gets to choose two appetizers from their long list followed by the white bean and truffle soup, a main course and a dessert.  The portions are adjusted for the multi-course menu so they are smaller than an a la carte portion.  After reading through the menu, we finally made our choices and started the first of two bottles of Pulenta Estate Malbec from Mendoza.

I made sure to choose three dishes that were listed in the 10-course tasting menu so I knew that I was trying Marmalade's recommended dishes.  I started off with the tuna  - chunks of sashimi grade tuna tossed in sesame seeds, sesame oil and lime which came with a crispy rice crackers,  This was followed by the unique paella appetizer - three crispy individual bites of saffron rice (sort of like risotto cakes) topped with a sliver of chorizo and some aioli.  Next was their signature white bean soup which came in an espresso cup, scented with truffle oil - a richly flavored mushroomey cream complimented by tiny crispy bacon bits - my favorite dish.  For my main course, I chose the seafood special - an Andalusian-style cod asopao (Puerto-rican style soup) in a red pepper and saffron-based frothy broth, topped with clams.  Finally for dessert, I had the cheekily named coffee (not really coffee but a chocolate pot de creme served in another espresso cup so it looked like coffee) and donuts (chocolate raspberry macadamia beignets.  We were almost the last ones at the restaurant when we finally decided to head back to Dorado.  All in all, a lovely dinner getting to know new friends and talking about anything and everything and a sign of more good times to come.

__________________________

Marmalade

317 Fortaleza Street

Old San Juan

Puerto Rico

Telephone: +1 787 724 3969

*Dinner daily.  Open till late on Fridays and Saturdays.

*Reservations highly recommended.

COMPOSTELA

A few weeks back we were invited to dinner at Compostela, which I was so looking forward to as this is one of San Juans' top restaurants for tapas and Spanish cuisine. This Galician-owned restaurant opened in 1982 where it has maintained its' reputation for fine Spanish cuisine.  Recently renovated and turned into a restaurant with a wine bar/shop, Compostela has transformed into a much more modern space but still serves the same quality tapas and Spanish dishes that they have perfected over the years. 

The entrance opens onto a wine bar with a large cruvinet (wine dispenser chilled cabinet) and shelves lining the walls with an impressive number of hard-to-find Spanish wines which can either be ordered in the restaurant or purchased to take home.  Towards the back is a larger space where modern art adorn the walls and simple black tables and chairs are spread out in the rectangular room. We arrived around 7:30 and were seated with our hosts at a quiet corner table.  A refreshing dry Spanish white wine (I didn't get to see the label) was served and since our hosts are regulars at this restaurant and knew what to order, the tapas started to appear.

We started off with delicious sashimi-grade tuna chunks drizzled with a balsamic glaze and sprinkled with black sesame seeds.  Then came three platters of classic Spanish tapas - Manchego (cheese),  jamon serrano and croquetas de bacalao (cod fish croquettes).  The ham and cheese were authentic and the croquetas were crisp on the outside and gooey on the inside, the way they are supposed to be.

After polishing off most of the tapas, menus were presented so we could choose our main courses. While waiting for our dishes to be served, the owner  brought out a new appetizer for us to try - foie gras stuffed in a roll of paper-thin slices of langoustines, topped with shredded almonds and covered in a savory olive oil foam - it was an deliciously interesting combination of melting warm duck liver and encased in the delicate langoustine.

The menu is varied and there were so many other enticing items on the menu which I'll definitely try on my next visit - my favorite arroz negro con calamares y aioli (squid-ink rice with squid), cochinillo confitado (suckling pig confit) and lots of other interesting tapas, but being a Galician restaurant, fish and seafood were their specialties and that evening, there were two fish of the day (La Pesca del Dia) - sauteed halibut with olive oil and garlic and the rare swordfish topped with jabugo (the extraordinary Spanish cured ham from black-footed acorn fed pigs).  I chose the swordfish which was highly recommended by the chef and A had the lomo de cordero con parsillada (lamb loin).  The swordfish was a modern version of tataki - seared on the outside but raw on the inside slices of swordfish over creamy white beans and sprinkled with tiny slivers of umami-packed jamon jabugo.  A's lamb loin was perfectly cooked - crisp on the outside yet rose on the inside as lamb should be, and came with sauteed spinach and mushrooms.  Both dishes were perfectly executed and had the right mix of textures and flavors that make a main course one-of-a-kind.

We all couldn't resist ordering a dessert to finish off the dinner.  I had the tropical sorbet selection - coconut, mango and guava and A had the crema Catalana (Spanish version of creme brulee).  By the time we had our espressos, the restaurant was packed and noisy so we all left soon after.  Dinner at Compostela was the first impressive restaurant experience I had since arriving in San Juan - authentic yet modern cuisine, a great wine selection, efficient service and the opportunity to discover it with interesting and generous hosts who were clearly food lovers as well, made me optimistic about the dining offerings in Puerto Rico. 

P.D. October 24, 2012

We've been back a few more times and were impressed with the consistently high quality of the ingredients used.  Recently, we tried their arroz negro and it was like we were back in Spain.  A must-visit for tapas and Spanish food craving.

______________________________
Bodegas Compostela
Avenida Condado 106
San Juan 00907
Puerto Rico
Telephone: +1 787 724 6099

*Open for lunch and dinner Mondays to Fridays 12 noon to 10 p.m., Saturdays for dinner 3 to 10 p.m.
*Wine store open Mondays to Saturdays 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
*Valet parking

BOTTLES

Several weeks ago, we went to dinner at Bottles, which was recommended by a few people as a fantastic place to go for their very reasonably-priced wines.  We got lost a bit on the way there but after a few stops to ask for directions, we finally found it.

Bottles is a boxy warehouse looking building which houses a wine store/ fresh meat and fish counter/ delicatessen.  Right near the entrance is the shop area and towards the back are the shelves and shelves of wines and the restaurants tables. For a mid-week evening, the place was packed.  We were asked if we were going to have "appetizers" or "main courses" which we found strange.  When we told the receptionist that we were going to have dinner (i.e. main courses), she led us towards the back to a smaller closed-off area with a few tables that were set apart from the main room.

Our server came over right away with their makeshift blackboard menu which was actually a paper stuck onto a heavy wooden board.  The menu is varied and had several appetizers and several main courses with ingredients mainly taken from whatever they also sold at the fish and meat counter - tuna, scallops, sirloin steaks, veal chops.  We were surprised at the prices - appetizers were around $12 to $19 and main courses were $30 to $50 - quite pricey for a deli/restaurant.

We finally settled on two starters to share: tuna tartar and fried calamari and a main course to share - the veal chop with mashed potatoes.  Our sever didn't seem too pleased with our order as he was recommending their special that evening which was stone crab and neither of us ordered that.  He also asked us if we were sharing the main course and when we said yes, he suggested that we split the main course onto two plates which we thought was a great idea.  A few minutes later, the server came back to tell us that they had run out of the veal chop so chose the rack of lamb instead.

After ordering the food, we went to the shelves to have a look at their extensive wine display.  Here is where the attraction of Bottles lies, it's being able to choose from such a wide variety of wines and paying just retail price to drink that wine at the table with one's dinner.  I have to admit that the selection was amazing - from interesting New World wines to French Chateau wines all at very reasonable retail prices and not the usual three times more we would have had to pay to drink these wines at a typical restaurant.

We settled on a bottle of an Argentine Bodega del Fin del Mundo (the cellar at the end of the world) special blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.  The appetizers were served soon after and that's when the surprises started - the tuna tartar was a large mound of chopped raw tuna with some tostones (fried plantain rounds) and the calamari was also a large platter of fried squid which came with aioli and cocktail sauce.  We were shocked at the portions as we could have shared an appetizer if we had known or if the server had kindly told us that the portions at Bottles are for sharing.  After having a quick look around, we realized that we were the only ones who had an appetizer each as the other tables were all sharing their appetizers.  We were relieved that we had decided to share a main course as there was no way we were going to get through all that food in one sitting.

The tuna tartar was delicious - spicy chunks of sashimi-grade tuna in a wasabi, lime, soy-sauce and sesame oil dressing.  They were perfect slathered onto the crispy and usually tasteless fried plantain rounds.  The calamari were also good but nothing special, just crispy squid with some dipping sauces.  We managed to finish the tuna but asked to take the rest of the squid home.

Our main course was served not long after we finished our starters.  It was half a rack which was three pieces each with some mashed potatoes and half a head of broccoli.  Again, the portion was gigantic and enough for two.  Who can finish a whole rack of six lamb chops after the giant appetizers?  Again, we noticed that the other tables were also sharing their main courses.  

By the end of the meal, we figured out that everything on the menu is triple the size of what you imagine it to be and ordered only one dessert to share - cheesecake - which as we expected was a large hunk (about a quarter of a regular-sized whole cheesecake) with strawberries and melon and strangely enough, chocolate sauce instead of the usual berry coulis (sauce).  The cheesecake was delicious and a nice sweet treat to end our meal.

When we asked for the check, we found one last unpleasant surprise - they had charged us $8.00 extra for splitting our order into two plates (which the server had never mentioned when he "kindly" offered us separate plates) and they also added a suggested 17% service charge which the server honestly didn't deserve.

After our dinner at Bottles, we asked around and everyone agreed that the portions were outrageous and the service uncaring so we didn't feel too bad about our own experience. Would we go back to Bottles? Yes, because the wine selection is impressive, the wine prices a bargain and the food is pretty good.  Next time though, we're doing what everyone else does - sharing appetizers, main courses and desserts and remembering not to ask for the plates to be split.

P.D. May 28, 2012

We've been back twice more for brunch at Bottles and the service has been much better and once one knows that the portions are gigantic, then it's easy to order right and enjoy the meal and the fantastic wines at super prices.

____________________________________

Bottles

5 Tabonuco Street

Guaynabo 00968 Puerto Rico

Telephone: +1 787 775 1210 or 787 775 0604

*Open Mondays to Fridays from 9 AM to 10 PM, Saturdays from 11 AM to 10 PM and Sundays for Brunch from 11 AM to 4 PM (Kitchen closes at 3 PM)

THE BEST OF 2011

My Best of the Year post takes time to complete.  I go through all the meals of the past year and make a short list of the places that really impressed me with an unforgettable meal.  It doesn't have to be a fancy restaurant, it's all about the food and the experience.

Since 2011 was a year of travel for me, there were many restaurants to choose from.  New places were discovered - Bangkok and Beijing, some revisited - Sydney and San Francisco, along with the usuals - Singapore, Las Vegas and Manila and of course I explored my island home - Bali - as well.  After much deliberation and elimination, and in no particular order, here are my best gourmet experiences of 2011.

BEST BREAKFAST

No questions about it, my best breakfast this year was at bills in Sydney's Darlinghurst.  From the fantastic flat whites to the amazing ricotta hot-cakes, the delicious sweet corn cake to the homemade oatmeal, the breakfast was amazing and the service friendly.  How I wish there was a bills near me!

BEST IN THE PHILIPPINES

Since I'm from Manila, I had to include two restaurants that really impressed me back home: Antonio's and Cafe Juanita.  Antonio's is a no-brainer and on most foodies best list.  It made the drive up to Tagaytay worth it and their fine dining and Colonial atmosphere is just the right mix of fancy and simple.  Cafe Juanita is a bit off the beaten track but also worth the drive to Pasig for home-cooked Filipino food.  This is the kind of food I crave while living abroad.  It felt like I was back at my lola's (grandmother's) house having one of those long leisurely Sunday lunches.

BEST IN SOUTHEAST ASIA

Here in Bali, a restaurant that that's a favorite for local food is Cafe Degan for classic Javanese cuisine in a classic wooden joglo (wooden house).  Simple food and friendly service.  They also have half their menu dedicated to Thai dishes as the chef used to work in Thailand.  Whether you order from the Thai side of the menu or the Javanese side, you won't be disappointed.

In Singapore, where I was almost every six weeks, my cousin took me to Ippudo where we had a fantastic noodle lunch - flavorful broth, al dente ramen, chunky pork belly - everything was good.

Two new places we visited this year were Bangkok and Beijing.  In Bangkok, I had my first taste of the real flavors of Thai cuisine.  I tried many types of Thai food and enjoyed most of them but it was chef David Thompson's fine dining take on classic Thai street food at Nahm that left me with a clear idea of how sophisticated Thai food is.

In Beijing, we had the best Beijing duck (aka Peking duck) I've ever tasted at Made in China  - extra crispy non-fatty skin with either sugar for dipping (a novelty!) or the traditional Hoisin-pancake-scallion-cucumber roll.  And it wasn't just the duck, the other dishes were also outstanding and it was the best Chinese meal I'd had all year.

BEST IN THE AMERICAS

In the Americas, we start down South where we made our usual pilgrimage to Buenos Aires and where surprisingly, we didn't eat at our favorite El Mirasol as often as we usually do.  Instead, we rediscovered a Recoleta classic - Munich (or as the locals call it - "el munitch") where we had dinner almost every night and never got tired of their repertoire of classic dishes - a perfectly grilled matambre (pork steak), crispy papas paille (shoestring fries), a simple green salad, the retro Chicken Maryland and Chicken Kiev plus lots of other home-style dishes from the past and the impeccable service from the white-jacketed old-timers just added to the atmosphere.

Finally to North America, first at our usual stop in Las Vegas where we had a superb tapas meal at Jaleo where it felt like we were back in Spain.  It was great to see the quality of Spanish food so lovingly recreated at chef Jose Andres' hip and happening tapas restaurant.  We also revisited our favorite city - San Francisco - so many lovely memories from past visits and so long since our last encounter in 2004.  Dinner at RN74 was impressive - cool concept, fantastic Burgundy wines, packed with a mixed crowd and best of all, the food was really good - simple classic dishes made of incredible ingredients which is what San Francisco is all about.

Last but not least, we go back to breakfast where I just have to mention the best coffee I've had all year (lots of close seconds - Sambalatte in Las Vegas, bills in Sydney and Liberica in Jakarta) but this one topped my list and made my mornings better - Blue Bottle Coffee.  The coffee was prepared with so much love and they took their time getting it right which just goes to show that after all these years, San Francisco's foodie ways haven't changed, it's only gotten better.  And with that I look forward to another year of eating and traveling.  I hope that 2012 will be as food-filled as 2011 was.  Happy Gourmet Travels!

RN74

My penultimate post on San Francisco was our last dinner in the city before I headed back home to Bali and the rest of the family went back home to Las Vegas.  On that Saturday evening, we booked a table at Michael Mina's RN74.  The name is the acronym for Route Nationale 74, the road that runs through the vineyards of Burgundy in France starting at Dijon and ending in Beaune.

The restaurant is a long room with cozy half-moon booths lining one side and a traditional long banquette (leather covered bench) on the window side.  Polished cement floors, wooden shutters covering the windows and hanging red glass lamps make the place cozy.  There are also two long tables running down the middle of the restaurant which can serve larger groups.  The back room is lit up with a large board similar to the ones seen in train stations with the most-sold wines featured on the board instead of the usual train timetable so it flicks and changes all through the night.

When we arrived, our table wasn't ready yet so we sat at the adjacent bar which was packed with several diners having just cocktails and some food from the bar menu.  There are several more bar tables in the back for those who just want to have a drink and something simple to eat.  R and I shared a glass of Californian Tatomer Riseling while C had a 16-year old reserve bourbon from AH Hirsch with some Parmesan crackers to snack on while we waited.

About half an hour later, we were led to our table - a very cozy table right behind the hostess stand.  At this point, the second round of diners for the evening were being seated as well and the restaurant stayed full all throughout our meal.  After having a look at the dinner menu and the extensive wine list, we made our choices.

From the Plates to Share, we chose a starter for the three of us - the herb-roasted marrow bones along with a celebratory Burgundy of course, my favorite Chambolle Musigny premier cru from the 2008 vintage of Ghislaine Barthod.  The bone marrow was one large piece split in half and sprinkled with parsley and served with grilled bread and sticky bacon marmalade.  The crispy bread slathered with bacon jam and topped with chunks of melting hot bone marrow was incredible.  A burst of salty rich in every bite and an excellent start to our dinner.

Next came the appetizers: R had the Burgundian escargots, a sharing plate of nine bubbling snails, half of which were covered with the classic garlic butter and the other half with a paprika butter.  From the First section of the menu, C had the hamachi crudo - slices of raw yellow tail fish with pomelo, trout roe and drizzled with olio nuovo and I had the autumn salad of fall fruits and vegetables - chestnuts, shaved fennel and carrots and pumpkin with greens tossed in a Banyuls (fortified French wine served either as an aperitif or for dessert) vinaigrette.

Main courses followed:  another starter for R, the Mendocino sea urchin and potato mousseline which came served in a very prickly sea urchin shell.  The creamy rich soup was flavored with pine nuts, Douglas fir (actual rosemary-like leaves in the soup) and black trumpet mushrooms.  C had the Snake River Farms Wagyu flatiron steak seared medium rare and served with potato and artichoke gratin, black truffle and gremolata and I had the Liberty Farm duck breast a l'orange, which actually came with duck breasts and the bonus addition of chunks of crispy duck confit, delicious Savoy cabbage, roasted salsify, braised chestnuts and rich foie gras.  It was delicious but I couldn't get through the whole plate and gave several slices to both R and C to help me finish my plate.

I was stuffed after my three courses and the wine so we all skipped the cheese and they ordered one dessert to share and another one, beignets, to take home to my niece.  The milk chocolate pot de creme came in a tumbler and with it's chunks of salted toffee, devil's food cake and cocoa nib, it made a perfect bittersweet ending to our delicious dinner.  Hands down, the best meal I had on this Thanksgiving trip to the U.S., and probably in all of 2011 was at RN74.

_____________________________

RN74

301 Mission Street

(between Fremont and Beale)

San Francisco CA 94105

Telephone: +1 415 543 7474

*Open for lunch, Mondays to Fridays from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. and daily for dinner from 5:30 p.m.

*Wine bar open Mondays to Fridays from 11:30 a.m. till late and on Saturdays and Sundays from 5:30 p.m. till late

Buenos Aires: A few of my favorite things

Artesania Argentina

Arandu - Avenida Ayacucho, 1924, Recoleta (Telephone: +54 11 4800 1575)

Right smack in the tony neighborhood of Recoleta, Arandu has been in business since 1987 producing high quality traditional Argentinean arts and crafts.  From belts to ponchos, alpargatas to boots and all sorts of leather goods, pewter items to silverware, carriages to saddles and even clothes, are all beautifully displayed at their multi-story boutique close to the Alvear Hotel.  They have several branches in the city but it's this particular location that is often visited by celebrities and tourists in search of a souvenir or made-to-order equestrian equipment. 

Best buy: gaucho-inspired belt or alpargatas for less than US$20.

Lecuona de Prat Artesanias - Pacheco de Melo 1967 - 1C, Recoleta (Telphone: +54 11 4803 0253)

In an apartment located in residential Recoleta is this amazing boutique of Maria del Pino Lecuona de Prat (a mouthful of a name) where one-of-a-kind pewter items from Salta are for sale. There are trays and soap dishes, bracelets and picture frames, ice buckets and tumblers, all of them handmade.  Prices are not cheap but this is a real find.  Call first for an appointment.

Best buy: pewter stirrup-shaped teaspoon with a handle covered in braided leather for about US$10.

30 Quarenta - Arroyo 890, Recoleta (Telephone: +54 11 4326 1065)

Although not a shop that specializes in traditional Argentinean artifacts, this colorful store on Recoleta's chi-chi antique furniture and art gallery street Arroyo, is a delight.  Antique posters, old toys reworked as lamps, decorative pieces and furniture.  You'll be sure to find something you like and if friendly owner Miguel is there, have a chat with him to find out a bit more about his whimsical designs.

Helado (a.k.a ice cream)

Argentina competes with Italy for best artesanal gelatos with an excellent quality and innovative flavors.  There is always the original, classic Freddo (several locations, Delivery ) but our favorite is Un'Altra Volta (also several locations, Delivery 0810 88-VOLTA) for their creamy flavors and an incomparable chocolate amargo (bitter chocolate).

Best buy:  Mini cones at both places for US$1.20 for a sweet afternoon treat

Treats to try: 

• fried (not baked) empanadas - the best ones I've tried are at El Mirasol (see below)
• medialunas de grasa (made from lard) and medialunas de manteca (made from butter)
• tostados de jamon y queso at any cafe for breakfast or an afternoon snack
• cortadito - a slightly taller espresso macchiato

Recoleta

A stroll around the neighborhood of Recoleta, mainly on Avenida Alvear and Avenida Posadas where several fantastic examples of Belle-Epoque architecture are evident and where the city's most expensive designer boutiques, both local and imported ones, are located.  Watch out for the dog walkers as well - another interesting Buenos Aires feature.

El Mirasol - El Mirasol de La Recova, Posadas 1032 (Telephone: +54 11 4326 7322)

My two favorites on their menu and probably the best versions in the city.  Empanadas de carne - hot crispy, fried pastries filled with a delicious ground meat and spice mix and Mollejas de corazon (veal sweetbreads) - sliced thinly and grilled to perfection and enjoyed just with a spritz of lemon.

Best buy: A dozen empanadas to go or to delivered to your doorstep in a box.  Empanadas are about US$1.50 each.

Alpataco, vinos y cuero - Avenida Pte. M. Quintana 450, Recoleta (Telephone: +54 11 4806 9637)

Good value and reasonably-priced, wines are good presents for friends or for your own cellar.  There are several wine stores in the city but this is one that we liked because of the friendly service and knowledgeable staff.  They have a well-edited selection of wines accompanied by wine accessories and beautiful leather products making it a one-of-a-kind store. Plus, they pack the wines in styrofoam cases ready to be checked in for a long flight and deliver to your apartment of hotel.

Best buy: a bottle of the typical Argentine white wine Torrontes for around US$15.

Aldo's Vinoteca - Moreno 372, San Telmo (Telephone: +54 11 5291 2380)

In out of the way San Telmo, this wine bar is paving the way to proper enjoyment of wines with it's policy of selling wines with retail shop prices in the restaurant to encourage diners to splash out on a good bottle of wine instead of ordering the usual cheaper wines by the glass. It's an idea that should be copied wordlwide.

Best buy: a plate of cured salmon (US$11) with a bottle of Torrontes (US$15).