EL TARDEO

El Tardeo, is the newish tapas bar owned and managed by next-door  Binomio, our favorite Spanish restaurant in Singapore.  Open from the late afternoon  for the Spanish tapas-bar-hopping habit called "tapeo" (the name is a mix  of "tarde" meaning afternoon and "tapeo"), El Tardeo's interiors are simple with a large bar on one end and several bar tables scattered throughout the concrete-floored space.  

El Tardeo's menu is a mix of cold and hot pintxos and tapas, cold cuts and a few salads and main courses with an extensive cocktail and drinks list highlighting the trendy Spanish pre-dinner drink, the gin tonic while sangria, beers,  Cava and Spanish wines.

On a recent mid-week visit, we stuck to sharing several small plates with a few glasses of a crisp Radio Boca verdejo from Valencia. We started out with the cold pintxo tortilla patata - layers of thinly sliced potatoes, covered in fluffy egg and topped with a tiny dollop of aioli (strangely served hot instead of cold),  a couple of hot pintxos - the zapatilla, thin slices of melt-in-the-mouth jamon on toasted bread rubbed with tomato and the cojonudo - grilled chorizo fried egg and a piquillo pepper.  This was followed by a few modern tapas: croquetas de calamares filled with squid ink flavored béchamel, the grilled secreto Iberico (surprisingly bland for a usually flavorful cut) and the outstanding bikini de rabo toro - tender oxtail sandwiched between a  crispy pancake-like covering.  We were still a bit hungry after that so we shared some pan con tomate and finished off our meal with an espresso.  El Tardeo is perfect for big groups at happy hour who want to sample tasty tapas with drinks, but if it's dinner you're after, book a table at next-door Binomio instead.

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El Tardeo

20 Craig Road, Craig Place #01-01

Singapore 089692

Telephone: +65 6221 6288

SMS: +65 8181 1829

Email: reservation@eltardeo.sg

*Tuesday to Saturday 6 pm to midnight, Sunday from 11 to 6 pm, Closed Mondays

ESQUINA

In bustling Chinatown are several small streets where Singapore's hip and happening restaurants are located.  Shophouses line these tiny streets and one after another, they have been dolled up on the outside and restored on the inside for the many young chefs starting out.  Created by Jason Atherton, a Gordon Ramsay alum from Verre in Dubai and Maze in London, this tiny tapas bar headed by Andrew Walsh has been serving Spanish-inspired small plates since it opened in 2011. 

Getting a much-coveted stool at the communal bar was a challenge which is why we never risked a Friday evening dinner there as we never knew how long the wait would be.  Recently, they opened a second floor dining space - Esquina 2.0 - which accommodates about 25 diners and we were lucky enough to snag a table here on a weekend evening.

The Esquina menu is printed onto a simple paper placemat and divided into six sections: Snacks, Soil, Sea, Land, Desserts and Drinks with each section listing about half  dozen choices.  On that evening, there were three of us for dinner and we shared many small plates, making sure to order a few from each section. 

We started out with a bottle of Cape Roca Fisherman Tejo red along with a couple of Snacks: the warm thyme and onion bread served with smoked bone marrow butter (individual popover-like rolls were served with a couple of bone marrows which we slathered onto the hot bread), the pork crackling, salt cod and smoked herring roe - a modern version where pork crackling seem like a large cracker (like a pork krupuk) topped with several dots of salt cod mousse and roe - this was more form than substance, it tasted fine but was a bit too much for so little and the classic jamon croquetas - no tricks here, just the usual breadcrumbed creamy béchamel with jamon Iberico bits.  From Soil, we had the salt-baked beetroot with whipped burrata, truffle honey and a raspberry pine nut crumble - thinly sliced beetroot over creamy bur rata made smoky sweet from the truffle honey - exceptional flavors which made modern with the addition of the raspberry pine nut "soil" (full disclaimer - I'm not a fan of endless foams and soils in food).  From Sea, we had the and excellent seared sea bass with the chorizo black paella and some kind of foam (could it have been olive?).  From Land, the roasted duck breast with carrot escabeche and tarragon citrus couscous topped by another pork "krupuk-style" crackling and the roasted lamb loin with sweet garlic puree, salsify and broad beans which we shared a large side of chorizo paella with chorizo "soil".  For Dessert, we had the chocolate mousse with chocolate soil (again) and vanilla churros along with a Manchego cheese custard, black olive, brioche crumbs (more soil) and apricot jam.   All in all, an enjoyable meal.  I just wish they didn't overdo the soils and foams.  Often, food can still be fun without being overly-gimmicky.

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Esquina

16 Jiak Chuan Road

Singapore 089267

Telephone: +65 6222 1616

*Open for lunch Mondays to Fridays for lunch from 12:00 to 2:30, Dinner from Mondays to Saturdays 6:00 to 10:30, Closed Sundays

*Dinner Tasting Menu for $130++ (nine small plates)

*Supperclub Menu for $120++ (eight small plates)

MI CASA BY JOSE ANDRES

In order to move on, I need to close our Dorado chapter and start our Singapore life so what better way to end than with my final Puerto Rico post on the dinners we had Mi Casa by Jose Andres.   The menu is divided into four parts - Tapas and Antojitos (starters of mostly tapas), To Follow (salads and soups) and Platos Fuertes (main courses) and Simply Prepared (mostly grilled fish or meat).  There is also an option to do Jose's Tapas Experience Menu, an 11-course small plates tasting menu which lets you experience the full flavors of his take on modern Caribbean cuisine.  Some of my favorite Puerto-rican style tapas (moms of which are shown above) were the Bocadillo de lechon (roasted pork belly with chayote mojo and crispy crackling on a soft bun),  ceviche de atun con coco y aguacate (tuna ceviche tossed in coconut milk and topped with fresh avocado and topped with crispy quinoa), cono de queso con lechoza (Canarejal cheese and papaya marmalade stuffed in a crispy mini cone) and the modern take on the Puerto Rican classic - the mallorca, a sweet brioche style powdered sugar coated bread filled usually with ham and cheese and grilled. This version is stuffed with foie gras and mango jam and is a must!  Jose's classic tapas like the croquets de pollo, served in an acrylic shoe as usual, are also present along with the not-to-be-missed jamon Iberico y pan con tomate.  From the main courses, I loved the Rossejat Negra - a Catalan squid ink noodle dish sort of like paella served with Spanish langoustines and the gnocchi de yuca (Yuca gnocchi with hearts of palm and a Puerto Rican style pesto).

Desserts were also a treat from the Tres Leches - a Puerto Rican classic rum and pineapple cake to the arroz con coco - a light Caribbean version of rice pudding flavored with coconut milk and served alongside a tart guava sorbet and finally the tierritas de Puerto Rico - grated chocolate with the texture of soil (tierra is the Spanish word for it) topping homemade cocoa and vanilla ice creams.

In case you though that Mi Casa was a formal fine dining restaurant, they also have a children''s menu filled with kid-friendly dishes (just don't expect nuggets) - there's a peanut butter and guava jelly sandwich on toasted mini-brioche buns,  chicken and béchamel croquettes, mini rib-eye hamburgers with french fries or a simple grilled fish served with yuca puree.  

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Mi Casa by Jose Andres
at the Dorado Beach, a Ritz Carlton Reserve
100 Dorado Beach Drive
Dorado PR 00646
Telephone: +1 787 278 7217
*Open daily for breakfast and dinner.

THE BEST OF 2012

It's taken a few weeks to get this blog post together but it's finally here - my annual best of 2012.  The first two were unique and fantastic in every way.  The next three are the best of Puerto Rico followed by the three best in Las Vegas and finally, the two best casual eats, one from a food truck here in Dorado and another from a beach shack in Anguilla.  All in all, 10 of my most memorable meals of the year.  Enjoy and I look forward to more new restaurant discoveries in 2013!

BEST OF THE BEST

Pubbelly (Miami)

A mid-year find on a long weekend mini-break to Miami.  Pubbelly is a gastronomic casual restaurant created by three partners - two Puerto Ricans and one Spanish, which has taken Miami by storm.  After this first foray, they have created four other successful casual eateries - Pubbelly Sushi for modern sushi, Barceloneta for Spanish tapas, Macchialina, an Italian salumeria and trattoria and about a week ago, PB Steak.  These boys have got their concepts down and manage to create a casual atmosphere loved by locals and still serve amazing food.  The menu at Pubbelly is mostly Asian-inspired but there were a few Spanish-influenced tapas as well.  Here's what we had in July.

ABC Kitchen (New York)

Another memorable summer meal was at ABC Kitchen located in the fantastic ABC Carpet & Home. Just over a year old and promoting local and organic ingredients, this was pared down comfort food that was all about the ingredients - assorted lukewarm roasted beets tossed in yoghurt, slices of heirloom tomato with just a sprinkling of salt on crusty bread, just-picked tiny radishes with cold sweet butter and bread - everything was delicious!  The service was friendly, the place casual and the menu so enticing that I can't wait to go back. 

BEST IN PUERTO RICO

Santaella

This was our first dinner out in San Juan, right after we moved to Puerto Rico in March and has remained a favorite since.  Santaella manages to serve a modern take on Puerto Rican cuisine in an unfussy location near the Plaza del Mercado.  Food is good, service is friendly and the place is always packed with locals - what more can one ask for?

Blonda

A recent addition to the Condado scene, Blonda is another casual restaurant that knows what it's doing - simple food in great location with probably, the best brunch in San Juan.  There's valet parking, bookings taken on Open Table and good food in a light-filled space.

Compostela

For classic Spanish fare, there is no place better than Compostela - the interiors are modern but nothing special, come here for the food and the excellent selection of wines.  Every meal we've had here has been exceptional - the menu authentic, the ingredients fresh, the presentation simple, the service efficient and the experience always delicious.   

BEST IN LAS VEGAS

Sambalatte

The best coffee in Las Vegas.  Ever since they opened in 2011, they have been the only place in Las Vegas for proper coffee in all forms and shapes, from espresso to flat white, from cappuccino to mocha, from pour over brewed coffee to Aero Pres,  from granita to affogato - they have proper coffee making and presentation figured out.  I never skip my Sambalatte morning cappuccino when I'm in Vegas and always stop by to say hello to the friendly owner, Luis.

Kabuto

Located in the same nondescript mall as other cult Japanese restaurants, Raku and Monta, Kabuto is a tiny restaurant with just three tables and an adequate sushi counter where the edomae sushi (Tokyo style super fresh sushi) is presented nightly using only the freshest fish and seafood and served slowly, one by one to be enjoyed.  This is the way sushi and sashimi should always be - no tricks, no mayonnaise, no fancy rolls - just fresh fish, perfectly seasoned vinegar rice, crisp seaweed, a tiny dot of wasabi and a dash of premium soy sauce.

Honey Salt

In the same area as Sambalatte, Honey Salt is so new that I haven't even blogged about my lunch there yet (post coming soon) but, believe me, this is the restaurant future for Las Vegas - trained chefs and experienced food and beverage operators band together to create their own restaurant concept.  Honey Salt is homey and the farm to table food is very good, but best of all, the minute one walks in, one can sense that the people behind the scenes know what they're doing from the logos, table settings, decor, menus and seamless service that there really is no longer a need to dine well just in a fancy Vegas hotel. Here's to a burgeoning trendy off-strip restaurant scene in Las Vegas!

BEST STREET/BEACH FOOD

Blanchards Beach Shack
If ever I open another restaurant, this is what I want it to be - simple food, a great outdoor setting and casual atmosphere.  Blanchards on the beautiful Mead's Bay beach in Anguilla is probably the best beach shack restaurant concept I've ever eaten in and for someone who's lived on several islands, that's the highest compliment ever.  Food is simple, containers are recycled, service is quick, prices and reasonable.  Blanchards Beach Shack gives fast food a great reputation.

NanoBox
Last but not least, is this Dorado food truck run by two brothers passionate about food and serving their modern version of Puerto Rican street food.  It's a great way to taste what the island has to offer and although their menu is limited, what they serve is pretty good so it's worth it to stop by for a snack on the weekend when this shiny white brand new food truck is parked just behind the Walgreen's in Dorado.
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Listed by location, in alphabetical order:

Anguilla - Blanchards Beach Shack

Las Vegas -
Honey Salt
Kabuto
Sambalatte

Miami - Pubbelly

New York - ABC Kitchen

Puerto Rico -
Blonda
Compostela
NanoBox
Santaella

PUBBELLY

On our last Saturday evening in Miami, I had scheduled for us to have dinner at Pubbelly, one of the Miami beach's foodie musts.  Opened by three friends, two of them Puerto Ricans and one Spanish, this "gastropub" has been the go-to place for both Miami beach residents and visiting foodies.  I had heard about the "Pubbelly boys" and their growing empire of small restaurants which started with Pubbelly then Pubbelly Sushi (right next door) plus another two - a newish tapas restaurant, Barceloneta, and their latest addition, the Italian, Macchialina.  All four are within the same area and almost within walking distance of each other and all are small enough for them to refuse reservations and just rely on a steady stream of walk-in guests from the neighborhood.

Since no reservations are taken at Pubbelly, we made sure to arrive at 6:30 (they open at 6:00) and thought we would easily snag one of the indoor tables but the place was packed and there was already a half hour wait so we settled for one of the two counter-style communal tables outside, each with 6 stools.  We three sat at one table, while another group was in the other, halfway through their dinner.  Service was quick and drinks orders were taken and menus given, as soon as we sat down.  Pubbelly's menu is made up of share plates of Asian-inspired tapas with a bit of French, Spanish and Italian influences thrown into the mix.  The ingredients origins are stated on the menu, sort of like a pedigree, so you know where every morsel you eat came from.  The food is meant to be shared and come in small portions, so dinner consists of many different plates set in the middle of the table "family-style".  There is also an extensive beverage menu with many beers on tap, wines and even sakes.

We were quite hungry after a long afternoon at the beach and started to pick out several items from the menu - the signature pork belly with kabocha, butterscotch miso and corn powder,  salt and pepper squid with smoked soy, serrano, schichimi (Japanese 7-flavor chili pepper) and crispy garlic, the classic Catalan pan con tomate, tuna crudo and the butcher steak - sliced hanger steak. From the dumplings, we chose pork and scallion with shoyu, schichimi and onion marmalade and from the noodles and rice, we went for the spicy Kimchee fried rice with seafood aioli (another version is with pork belly and pineapple).  The food came fast and one after another so our table started to fill up.  The tuna crudo was cold raw tuna chunks tossed in a dressing with watermelon pieces - a refreshingly spicy combination.  The steak, thinly-sliced and served with pear slices and crumbled Cabrales (Spanish blue cheese). The pan con tomate was the only classic dish we had - crusty bread rubbed with fresh tomato and drizzled with peppery E.V.O.O.  The pork belly lived up to its' reputation - a roasted melt-in-the-mouth pork belly chunk, slathered with sweet miso and served over wilted chinese greens.  The dumplings were delicious too and the kimchi fried rice was a shot of seafood and spice to accompany the rest of the dishes.  Only the salt and pepper squid was disappointing - dry and overcooked making the squid hard to chew.  For dessert, we shared the bread pudding and the frozen key lime pie, both of which came with fat-free frozen yoghurt and ended our gastropub experience on a sweet note.  Dinner at Pubbelly was a pleasure.  I look forward to my next Miami visit and to try the rest of the Pubbelly boys gastronomic creations.

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Pubbelly

1418 20th Street

Miami Beach, Florida

Tel: +1 305 532 7555

*Open for dinner from 6:00 p.m. till midnight on Tuesdays to Thursdays and from 6:00 p.m. till 1 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Mondays.

COMPOSTELA

A few weeks back we were invited to dinner at Compostela, which I was so looking forward to as this is one of San Juans' top restaurants for tapas and Spanish cuisine. This Galician-owned restaurant opened in 1982 where it has maintained its' reputation for fine Spanish cuisine.  Recently renovated and turned into a restaurant with a wine bar/shop, Compostela has transformed into a much more modern space but still serves the same quality tapas and Spanish dishes that they have perfected over the years. 

The entrance opens onto a wine bar with a large cruvinet (wine dispenser chilled cabinet) and shelves lining the walls with an impressive number of hard-to-find Spanish wines which can either be ordered in the restaurant or purchased to take home.  Towards the back is a larger space where modern art adorn the walls and simple black tables and chairs are spread out in the rectangular room. We arrived around 7:30 and were seated with our hosts at a quiet corner table.  A refreshing dry Spanish white wine (I didn't get to see the label) was served and since our hosts are regulars at this restaurant and knew what to order, the tapas started to appear.

We started off with delicious sashimi-grade tuna chunks drizzled with a balsamic glaze and sprinkled with black sesame seeds.  Then came three platters of classic Spanish tapas - Manchego (cheese),  jamon serrano and croquetas de bacalao (cod fish croquettes).  The ham and cheese were authentic and the croquetas were crisp on the outside and gooey on the inside, the way they are supposed to be.

After polishing off most of the tapas, menus were presented so we could choose our main courses. While waiting for our dishes to be served, the owner  brought out a new appetizer for us to try - foie gras stuffed in a roll of paper-thin slices of langoustines, topped with shredded almonds and covered in a savory olive oil foam - it was an deliciously interesting combination of melting warm duck liver and encased in the delicate langoustine.

The menu is varied and there were so many other enticing items on the menu which I'll definitely try on my next visit - my favorite arroz negro con calamares y aioli (squid-ink rice with squid), cochinillo confitado (suckling pig confit) and lots of other interesting tapas, but being a Galician restaurant, fish and seafood were their specialties and that evening, there were two fish of the day (La Pesca del Dia) - sauteed halibut with olive oil and garlic and the rare swordfish topped with jabugo (the extraordinary Spanish cured ham from black-footed acorn fed pigs).  I chose the swordfish which was highly recommended by the chef and A had the lomo de cordero con parsillada (lamb loin).  The swordfish was a modern version of tataki - seared on the outside but raw on the inside slices of swordfish over creamy white beans and sprinkled with tiny slivers of umami-packed jamon jabugo.  A's lamb loin was perfectly cooked - crisp on the outside yet rose on the inside as lamb should be, and came with sauteed spinach and mushrooms.  Both dishes were perfectly executed and had the right mix of textures and flavors that make a main course one-of-a-kind.

We all couldn't resist ordering a dessert to finish off the dinner.  I had the tropical sorbet selection - coconut, mango and guava and A had the crema Catalana (Spanish version of creme brulee).  By the time we had our espressos, the restaurant was packed and noisy so we all left soon after.  Dinner at Compostela was the first impressive restaurant experience I had since arriving in San Juan - authentic yet modern cuisine, a great wine selection, efficient service and the opportunity to discover it with interesting and generous hosts who were clearly food lovers as well, made me optimistic about the dining offerings in Puerto Rico. 

P.D. October 24, 2012

We've been back a few more times and were impressed with the consistently high quality of the ingredients used.  Recently, we tried their arroz negro and it was like we were back in Spain.  A must-visit for tapas and Spanish food craving.

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Bodegas Compostela
Avenida Condado 106
San Juan 00907
Puerto Rico
Telephone: +1 787 724 6099

*Open for lunch and dinner Mondays to Fridays 12 noon to 10 p.m., Saturdays for dinner 3 to 10 p.m.
*Wine store open Mondays to Saturdays 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
*Valet parking

THE BEST OF 2011

My Best of the Year post takes time to complete.  I go through all the meals of the past year and make a short list of the places that really impressed me with an unforgettable meal.  It doesn't have to be a fancy restaurant, it's all about the food and the experience.

Since 2011 was a year of travel for me, there were many restaurants to choose from.  New places were discovered - Bangkok and Beijing, some revisited - Sydney and San Francisco, along with the usuals - Singapore, Las Vegas and Manila and of course I explored my island home - Bali - as well.  After much deliberation and elimination, and in no particular order, here are my best gourmet experiences of 2011.

BEST BREAKFAST

No questions about it, my best breakfast this year was at bills in Sydney's Darlinghurst.  From the fantastic flat whites to the amazing ricotta hot-cakes, the delicious sweet corn cake to the homemade oatmeal, the breakfast was amazing and the service friendly.  How I wish there was a bills near me!

BEST IN THE PHILIPPINES

Since I'm from Manila, I had to include two restaurants that really impressed me back home: Antonio's and Cafe Juanita.  Antonio's is a no-brainer and on most foodies best list.  It made the drive up to Tagaytay worth it and their fine dining and Colonial atmosphere is just the right mix of fancy and simple.  Cafe Juanita is a bit off the beaten track but also worth the drive to Pasig for home-cooked Filipino food.  This is the kind of food I crave while living abroad.  It felt like I was back at my lola's (grandmother's) house having one of those long leisurely Sunday lunches.

BEST IN SOUTHEAST ASIA

Here in Bali, a restaurant that that's a favorite for local food is Cafe Degan for classic Javanese cuisine in a classic wooden joglo (wooden house).  Simple food and friendly service.  They also have half their menu dedicated to Thai dishes as the chef used to work in Thailand.  Whether you order from the Thai side of the menu or the Javanese side, you won't be disappointed.

In Singapore, where I was almost every six weeks, my cousin took me to Ippudo where we had a fantastic noodle lunch - flavorful broth, al dente ramen, chunky pork belly - everything was good.

Two new places we visited this year were Bangkok and Beijing.  In Bangkok, I had my first taste of the real flavors of Thai cuisine.  I tried many types of Thai food and enjoyed most of them but it was chef David Thompson's fine dining take on classic Thai street food at Nahm that left me with a clear idea of how sophisticated Thai food is.

In Beijing, we had the best Beijing duck (aka Peking duck) I've ever tasted at Made in China  - extra crispy non-fatty skin with either sugar for dipping (a novelty!) or the traditional Hoisin-pancake-scallion-cucumber roll.  And it wasn't just the duck, the other dishes were also outstanding and it was the best Chinese meal I'd had all year.

BEST IN THE AMERICAS

In the Americas, we start down South where we made our usual pilgrimage to Buenos Aires and where surprisingly, we didn't eat at our favorite El Mirasol as often as we usually do.  Instead, we rediscovered a Recoleta classic - Munich (or as the locals call it - "el munitch") where we had dinner almost every night and never got tired of their repertoire of classic dishes - a perfectly grilled matambre (pork steak), crispy papas paille (shoestring fries), a simple green salad, the retro Chicken Maryland and Chicken Kiev plus lots of other home-style dishes from the past and the impeccable service from the white-jacketed old-timers just added to the atmosphere.

Finally to North America, first at our usual stop in Las Vegas where we had a superb tapas meal at Jaleo where it felt like we were back in Spain.  It was great to see the quality of Spanish food so lovingly recreated at chef Jose Andres' hip and happening tapas restaurant.  We also revisited our favorite city - San Francisco - so many lovely memories from past visits and so long since our last encounter in 2004.  Dinner at RN74 was impressive - cool concept, fantastic Burgundy wines, packed with a mixed crowd and best of all, the food was really good - simple classic dishes made of incredible ingredients which is what San Francisco is all about.

Last but not least, we go back to breakfast where I just have to mention the best coffee I've had all year (lots of close seconds - Sambalatte in Las Vegas, bills in Sydney and Liberica in Jakarta) but this one topped my list and made my mornings better - Blue Bottle Coffee.  The coffee was prepared with so much love and they took their time getting it right which just goes to show that after all these years, San Francisco's foodie ways haven't changed, it's only gotten better.  And with that I look forward to another year of eating and traveling.  I hope that 2012 will be as food-filled as 2011 was.  Happy Gourmet Travels!

JALEO

Thursday evening at The Cosmopolitan and the place was pumping.  Restaurants were full and we made sure to arrive early for our 7:00 p.m. reservation.  Jaleo is an upscale tapas restaurant from famed Asturian-born, Barcelona-raised chef, Jose Andres.  Upon entering the bright, red and black-themed, we walk through the front area of counter-style tables and several seats at the bar before being led towards the back area where many tables of mostly large groups are already tucking in to dinner.  The noise level is high and the place is buzzing with noise as we are seated close to wall with the mounted bull's head wearing a wrestler-type face mask.

Red cardboard-backed menus are distributed along with the wine list and still water is ordered.  The front part of the extensive menu is covered in words - tortila, chistorra, jamon iberico, paella - different tapas on the menu.  After going through each section (artfully yet clearly arranged by type to make it easier to choose), A and I pick out a few of our favorites from the different interesting items on offer.  Traditionally, tapas are tiny one-bite portions of hot or cold food served with a drink, usually a beer or a glass of wine.  Here, the portions are not really for one but enough to share so the best way is to order a whole load of plates, place them in the middle of the table for everyone to dig into because, with tapas, no one wants to eat a whole plate of the same thing.

From the Buen Provecho, we had the Pan con tomate ($5 plain), crusty bread rubbed with tomato topped with Jamon Serrano ($12 with the ham) - a classic and something we missed from our days in Marbella.  From Latas y Mas (literally translates to cans and others is a typical Spanish tapa which is often high-quality canned goods, popped open and served on the counter) aceitunas rellenas y aceitunas "Ferran Adria" along with a bottle of the 2007Artadi Vi

ñas de Gain ($79) - a tempranillo from Rioja.  The jamon was buttery and just slightly salty, a perfect complement to the fresh tomato rubbed onto the crisp bread.  The aceitunas were drizzled with orange zest, a combination of large green olives stuffed with either anchovies or piquillo peppers and softer oblong "liquid olives" that burst in the mouth with the flavor of grassy, green olive oil.  (Remember to use the spoon provided to pop them carefully into the mouth or you might find yourself with a wardrobe malfunction.)

We skipped Embutidos (cured meats and cold cuts), Quesos (cheeses), Sopas (soups) and Jose's way (modern takes on tapas) sections and continued on with our traditional tapas for the night.  Next up were several items from Frituras (deep-fried stuff),cheekily sub-titled "frying is overrated....yeah, right!" - Croquetas de jamon Iberico ($10), potato croquettes stuffed with tiny chunks of jamon Iberico from black-footed, acorn-fed pigs, Berenjenas con miel de caña al estilo Malagueño ($8) crisp chunks of breaded aubergines drizzled with syrupy molasses, Chistorra envuelta en patata frita ($8) spicy sausages from the Northern part of Spain rolled in a thin potato chip.  They sure know how to deep-fry at Jaleo - all three were hot and crunchy and none of them were dripping in oil.

Then the rest of the share plates kept on coming.  Two dishes from Pescados y Mariscos - first, the tortilla de erizos ($12) a seafood version of the classic runny potato omelet topped with salty sea urchin chunks, followed by Rape a la Donostiarra ($10) another northern Spanish preparation for monk fish which is usually char-grilled whole fish over which is poured a mixture of piping hot olive oil, a dash of sherry vinegar, fried garlic chips and a dried red chili pepper.  Jaleo's version used thin carpaccio-like slices of monk fish making the dish more delicate than the original.

The next four dishes were more substantial and were actually smaller versions of main courses rather than actual tapas.  From the Carnes section - Carne Asada con piquillos Julian de Lodosa ($14), grilled hanger steak with Piquillo pepper confit, which was served exactly as is, and Papadas de Kurobuta y vieiras Mar y Muntanya ($14), Kurobuta pork jowls (a.k.a. cheeks) with scallops over olive oil potato puree, a modern take on the Catalan version of surf n turf.

Finally from the Paellas (we had to have one after seeing the smoking pit in front of the open kitchen which had three large paelleras, paella pans, simmering away), we chose the special that evening which was not listed on the menu, the seafood paella (don't remember the price of this one) - saffron-flavored rice with a lobster tail, clams and mussels with some alioli (the way it's supposed to be served and not with french fries like they did over lunch at Comme Ca).

We decided to order two more plates at the end of our meal: a repeat of the pan con tomate con jamon serrano (it was so good, everyone wanted seconds) and from the Bocadillos (sandwiches), the hamburguesa de Iberico - flauta (sort of like a mini-baguette) bread brushed with olive oil and fresh tomato, filled with grilled Iberico pork burger - the meat from the acorn-fed, black-hoofed pig, ground and seared on a charcoal grill, just like a burger except way juicier and tastier than beef.  We then shared two desserts ($9 each) - tarta de manzana al azafran, apple tart with a saffron and apple sorbet, and pastel de chocolate y avellanas, chocolate hazelnut cake with praline ice cream and salted caramel sauce along with some excellent illy coffees served in glasses (just like in Spain).  Our whole dinner for four - a dozen tapas, a bottle of wine, two desserts and coffees came up to $258 without tip. (Definitely reasonable for a hotel on the strip.)

The translation of jaleo (pronounced HA-LE-O) is an uproar, commotion or revelry which best describes what you will feel about Jose Andres' new Vegas outpost once you try it.  The food is authentic, the place casual, the decor modern and it's pretty noisy. I'm already looking forward our my next Vegas trip so I can work my way through Jaleo's whole menu.

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Jaleo

The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas
3708 Las Vegas Boulevard South
Las Vegas, NV 89109

Tel: +1 (702) 698 7950

email: lasvegas@jaleo.com

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

MERCADO SAN MIGUEL, Part 2

I was able to do several tours of the market while waiting for Cookie Feria so by the time she arrived for our lunch date, I had already scoped out which place was worth sharpening our elbows for.  We decided to wait for a spot at the seafood counter which had a simple but interesting menu and instead of ordering our food and taking it to one of the tables in the center of the market, we decided to wait for a spot directly at the bar.  After a ten-minute wait, a couple left and we immediately staked a claim on the one stool and tiny space they had.

We decided quickly and shared several plates - boquerones fritos (fried fresh anchovies), steamed shrimp, ensaladilla con erizo (sea-urchin with Russian salad) and steamed mussels.  Service is haphazard as there's only one person behind the counter but it was pretty quick and the seafood was quite good.  We were debating on whether we should have a plate of pan-grilled prawns but decided to have a dessert instead.  As soon as we paid the bill and slipped our handbags off our one and only stool, another couple edged their way in and there were still loads waiting around for a place to sit or to order.

We walked around a but more and looked for somewhere we could get a dessert - I chose churros con chocolate (fritters and hot chocolate) which should have been a breakfast treat but I couldn't help myself.   They weren't very good as they had been sitting on the display case for ages and were no longer hot and crunchy as they should be.  I should have had a slice of apple strudel from the Viennese place or a tiny cake from the pastry stall.  We sat at another counter and I had my disappointing dessert while Cookie had her coffee.

On the way back to the hotel, Cookie showed me a shortcut to get to the Ritz and we passed a few other interesting gourmet places.  There is a tiny Carbonell shop on Calle Mayor with lots of their different olive oils at really good prices - a small bottle of olive oil flavored with garlic and dried red chilies was 1.50 euros and a large bottle of first-pressed organic olive oil was just under 5 euros.  Further down the road and just on Plaza Mayor is a typical Spanish pastry place - La Mallorquina.  It's an old-style bakery complete with the white-coated not-so-friendly servers and an old-fashioned cash register.   Closer to the Ritz on Carrera de San Jeronimo were two other foodie spots - one is the traditional delicatessen Lhardy  which is old-fashioned but drop in as the woodwork and antique silver is worth a look.  On the tiny Plaza de Canalejas is the bustling Cafe del Principe which is going onto my Madrid List for my next visit. Another traditional gourmet shop is Casa Mira which specializes in turron (nougat) and is rumored to be the King of Spain's favorite and is just steps away from the hip and happening Hotel Urban.  As always, it's better to explore a city with a local, in this case Cookie, who took the time to show me a few new twists and turns in Madrid that I had never been to and now, i have loads to visit on my next trip to the big city.

MERCADO SAN MIGUEL, Part 1

After hearing so much about the newly refurbished Mercado San Miguel off Plaza Mayor, I knew that I couldn't avoid going there and seeing what the fuss was all about.  Since its' construction in 1916, this Beaux Arts iron and glass was always a working market until then over the years, the structure was left in disrepair until it closed for renovation in 2003 and reopened to much fanfare this year.

The market turns out much smaller than I expected but interesting nevertheless with its' concept of a modern market.  The combination of traditional market stalls - fruits and vegetables, fresh fish and seafood, bacalao (salted cod), jamon Iberico, cheeses, fresh meat, Italian delicacies and pastas and gourmet products - Vincon for its' well-known array of designer kitchen gadgets, Libreria LAIE for a wide selection of cookbooks).  

There are also several places to enjoy what the market has to offer and eat sur place either directly at the bar or brought to one of the few high tables left in the center area.  You can have a major smorgasbord of goodies - freshly-shucked oysters accompanied by champagne from Ostras Sorlut , some freshly sliced jamon Iberico with a glass of wine from Pinkelton & Wine, some Fino and mixed cashews and almonds from Vinos Olorosos.  There is also a stall specializing in Portugese delicacies like tiny shrimp fritters and croquettes or smoked salmon and cod from La Casa del Bacalao.

If you'd like to have a proper lunch then sidle up to one of the three bars serving food and squeeze your way into a space on the counter - there is the Cafeteria on one end which serves round pieces of bread topped with all sorts of delicious things: pulpo (octopus), tuna, ham, egg or even better, do as we did and sharpen your elbows for a spot on the counter right beside the fishmonger where there is a list of fish and seafood specials along with two dishes in the cauldrons right on the counter (more on that in another post).

Of course, if you're just wandering around  then have a look at one of the pastry counters at the far end where there will surely be something to tempt you.  Pasteleria V is an Austrian pastry shop where the cakes are made following the Viennese tradition of pastry-making.  Beside it is another sweet-tooth magnet, a long counter with Spanish pastries and sweets from magdalenas to yemas, from chocolates to artisanal ice cream.  All you'll need is a cup of coffee and a place to sit down to enjoy your treat.  The best part is that all that grazing of top-quality food is easier on the pocket than a full-on sit-down meal at a traditional Madrid restaurant and much more fun too.

LA MORAGA IBERICA

On the last week of August, three girl friends and I went to Puerto Banus before they all headed back home (R & V to Paris and T back to Madrid). I promised to take them to my new favorite boutique - Uterque (part of the Grupo Inditex brands which also own Zara). We ended up trying most everything in the store to the point that the Uterque image manager who was at the boutique setting up the window display, started to bring out stuff for us to try. Good that he did because we left with several items each and had lots of fun as well. After our shopping spree, we met up with A for dinner at the brand-new week-old tapas bar right in front of El Corte Ingles (where the office of Andalusian dream homes used to be).

La Moraga Iberica is Michelin-starred chef Dani Garcia's newest concept and a more modern version of his other tapas bar in Malaga, La Moraga. I had seen the space being kitted out for it's reincarnation from real estate office to funky restaurant and was eager to try it after several delicious meals at La Moraga.

The all-white interiors are sleek with a very low, wide bar in front of the show kitchen and grill. Several tables line the windows overlooking the street while each side of the restaurant is devoted to a display: one of wines and the other of Jamon Bellota (ham from acorn-fed black-hoofed pigs). On each end of the bar are large sunken buckets filled with several bottles of Cava and Champagne filled with dry ice which makes for a very interesting and smoky display.

The menu is very similar to the one in Malaga with tapas listed as hot or cold, a few salads, a few small main courses and a large selection of ham, chorizo and other cold cuts, all of which are from the famous black pigs that produce Spain's world-class ham.

Since we were starving, we started to order a whole selection of dishes (about 10 in total) with a few glasses of ice-cold Cava and some tinto de verano (a sort of sangria made from white wine, fruits and fizzy water). The plates started to come fast and furious, one after another, and our little table started to fill up very quickly. It got to the point where there wasn't any more space for any dishes and the server grudgingly stated that the food comes out of the kitchen quickly which is why we ask clients to order their dishes one by one. Well, we obviously didn't get that memo. Besides, this is supposed to be a tapas bar, and tapas usually come in small plates so I guess they need to sort out that part of their service sequence.

The food though was delicious and different - fresh white asparagus draped with several sashimi-style slices of hake, goat's cheese and olive oil mixed and served in a jar to be spread on melba toast, hand-chopped steak tartar also served with melba toast, little sandwiches of crushed chorizo on mollete (Andalusian soft white bread rolls), a salad of langoustine tempura with baby greens. Classics were given a twist - boquerones al vinagre (unsalted anchovies in vinegar) were served with roasted red peppers and a bit of tapenade in an open sardine tin, ensalada Rusa (Russian-style salad) was a chunky potato and tuna mix that wasn't overpowered by mayonnaise as it usually is and of course the infamous tortilla de patata (potato omelet) was smaller and perfectly-formed although the insides were a delicious gooey diced potato mess. There were also a few small main-course style dishes like the secreto Iberico (Iberian pork) pan-fried and with chunks of chorizo Iberico and what seemed like sweet potato, and the cocotte of beef cheeks cooked until meltingly-soft which came with a rich gravy and extra-smooth mashed potatoes.

We finished off our multi-course tapas dinner with two desserts to share among the five of us: the dark chocolate and bourbon pudding and the lemon cream dessert - both of which were gobbled up in about a minute. It was close to midnight when we finished yet the place still had a few tables getting ready to order.

The last hiccup of the evening was when we asked for the bill to be split evenly among the five of us and cashier came over with the machine and grumbled that we were making her job very, very difficult which shocked us into silence. La Moraga Iberica shows a lot of promise and it's great that they've got the food right, they just need to work on their service and remember that the customer is almost always right.

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La Moraga Iberica

Calle Ramon Areces, 1

29660 Puerto Banus, Marbella

(right across the street from El Corte Ingles)

+34 952 817 448

* No reservations taken at the moment but a table is normally ready in about 20 minutes. Have a drink and enjoy the scene.

* Fantastic outdoor seating (not yet open when we went).

LA MORAGA

La Moraga is a tapas bar located in a small alley off Malaga's main pedestrian street, Marques de Larios. It's at the end of Calle Fresca and might be hard to find if you don't know where to look. We had heard about this place from a few people and it was highly recommended by a chef when we asked for restaurant suggestions in Malaga.

We reserved a table a few days earlier since we didn't want to arrive and not have space at the tapas bar. Upon booking, we were told that all those who made a reservation (there is a small closed off section at the back where two tables are) must order the 35 euro menu de degustacion (tapas tasting menu). I inquired if we could order some other tapas as well and was told that normally there were seven tapas in the set menu and they were more than enough for a meal.

We arrived at the bar about 10 minutes after they open at 8 p.m. and were able to snag two stools at the corner of the long metal bar. Before we ordered, we indicated that we would like to cancel our table booking and just stay at the bar, the reason being we wanted to taste as many different tapas as we could and with the tasting menu, we both had to eat the same seven tapas throughout. The waitress told us that was fine and then went to tell the maitre'd that we were the table for two that had reserved and were now opting to stay at the bar. The maitre'd was upset and said that we couldn't really do that since he would lose several seats at the bar etc. In the end, he agreed saying that this time he would allow it. (I say why not give the customer what they want? Why penalize the ones who reserve ahead of time by forcing them to eat the same seven tapas which was our main contention.)

After the issue was resolved and we were finally settled at the bar, we were given the menus. The tapas listed are divided into nine sections - Frias (cold), Sopas (soups), Tarros (jars of spreadable items), Fritura (fried), Flamenquin (rolled, fried bites), Pan (bread), Pinchos (skewers), Guisos (stews) and finally Dulce (sweet or desserts). Each section has about three or four items. We decided to try something from every section except for the soups which were all cold soups which is a bit strange especially since it's gotten quite chilly recently. We made our choices and were served a small basket of bread - salty crackers and bits of Focaccia which arrived with our wine, both Ribera del Duero reds - a Montebaco for myself and an Arzuaga Crianza for A. The tapas came one after another soon afterwards so here's a rundown on what we had.

From the cold tapas, we chose three tapas - Lasagna de Boquerones (white anchovy), Brandada de bacalao (cod puree) and the Ensalada de Kumato (tomato salad). The cod was a smooth mash of fish with just the right amount of salt while the boquerones and tomate were cheekily presented. The former served in an open sardine tin and was layers of anchovy interspersed with roasted peppers and roasted aubergines to make it look like a lasagna. The latter was quartered tomatoes draped with a bit of anchovy and drizzled with a creamy dressing for a modern take on a caesar salad. We also ordered a Morcilla y manzana (Blood sausage and apple) from the spreads as well. The mini mason jar was filled with a tasty spread of smashed blood sausage topped with a layer of apple puree and served with some Melba toast.

Next up were the fried items - croquetas de salchichon (a deep-fried sausage croquette) and the Flamenquin de espinaca (similar to a Cordon bleu, this version had ham filled with spinach and rolled in breadcrumbs).

This was followed by our bread choice - a mini Mollete de Antequera (a special white slipper bread from Antequera that is typical in Andalusia) filled with choricillo (small chorizos). It came warm with caramelized onions and spread with mayonesa de mostaza (mayonnaise mustard) and chipotle sauce.

There were only two pinchos, so we ordered them both - cordero con taboule and pollo barbacoa. The lamb were tender chunks of meat marinated in a spice rub on top of taboule while the chicken were barbecue-flavoured chunks served over crushed potatoes. The lamb was much tastier than the chicken and more tender too. The chicken pieces were a bit dry and frankly pretty boring after all the delicious tapas we had already had.

Last on the list was one of the four stewed items or guisos. We chose the ravioli de rabo de toro (oxtail ravioli) as rabo de toro is a typical dish in this region, especially with the many bullfights that take place around here.

Finally, we ended our meal with a tarta de limon (lemon tart) and the mousse de chocolate negro (dark chocolate mousse), both of which came in their signature mini-mason jars. The lemon tart was creamy and sweet-sour while the bitter chocolate was offset by a sliver of passion fruit.

So far so good - we managed to polish off ten delicious tapas and a dessert each totalling twelve mini dishes and actually only two short of the tasting menu we had initially booked for. The big difference is that we spent 53 Euros (including two glasses of wine and mineral water) instead of 70 Euros (tasting menu for two people).

My advice - forget about booking a table, get there early instead, grab a stool, enjoy the elbow-to-elbow crowded bar and dig in for some wonderful tapas. The best part about this little place is that it's packed with a local clientele, something that's rare in this part of Andalusia, and definitely a good sign.

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LA MORAGA

Calle Fresca, 12

29015 Malaga

Tel: +34 952 226 851

**** Food - cheekily presented tapas and tasty little dishes

**** Atmosphere - a modern tapas bar bustling with a local clientele

*** Service - quick and efficient although they should change their table reservation policy