JOSE ENRIQUE

A few month's back, we finally made it to dinner at Jose Enrique after having heard rave reviews from everyone about this tiny restaurant.  A graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, chef Jose Enrique had worked at in the U.S.  before opening his restaurant in Santurce, right by the market, 2007.

Voted as one of the Best New Chefs of 2013 in Food and Wine, we knew that we had to make the effort to eat there.  Why the effort?  Well, because the restaurant doesn't take any reservations and although they are open for lunch during the week and it's probably easier to get a table then, we wanted to go for dinner so we showed up at early on a Saturday evening before the restaurant opened its' doors at 6:00 and joined the already lengthy queue on the street.  Doors did not open exactly at 6:30 so the line moved slowly until we got to the front where we were told that there were no more tables left.  As we had already waited more than half an hour, we asked if there was any other possibility, for example at the bar and the hostess finally agreed to seat us at one corner of the bar where we could still order from the regular menu.

The place is nondescript to say the least and not particularly charming so we hoped that despite the lack of ambiance, the food would be good.  Menus are written on whiteboards and just list the main ingredient: pollo (chicken), churrasco (skirt steak), filete de cerdo (pork loin) so we really couldn't decide what to order on our won as we needed the server to explain how these dishes were prepared and what they came with.

We finally decided on carne ahumada (smoked meat), longaniza (local pork sausage) and the minutas (fried fish) to start with a glass of Sauvignon blanc to start.  We could see the action from the tiny glassed-in kitchen where chef Jose Enrique was hard at work as the restaurant was packed for the first seating.  The starters were served with two bottles of homemade hot sauce - one green chili and the other red chili.  The sausage was good and came with a side of deep-fried tostones (mashed plantain fritters) and the deep-fried fish was delicious with a dip of the ubiquitous Puerto Rican sauce - mayoketchup (their version spicy of thousand island made with, as the name suggests, a combination of mayonnaise and ketchup).  The smoked meat was a disappointment though and not interesting as an appetizer - it was chunks of tough deep-fried (again) meat topped with pickled fried onions and also served with the deep-fried tostones.  What was also disappointing was the fact that most of the dishes, in true Puerto Rican style, were deep-fried and didn't give enough variety cooking-wise.

For our main courses, we chose the signature dish Colirrubia - a butterflied whole fish with the flesh taken off the bone then deep-fried whole, head, tail, skin and all - and served with a salsa made of chopped avocados and tomatoes.  We also had the pork loin which was a classic roast pork over mashed potatoes (boring side) and a chimichurri like sauce with tomatoes.  The plainest dish that evening was the churrasco (skirt steak), which although fine, came with a cup of rice and another fried plantain - more like cafeteria food than restaurant food.  Dessert was a giant portion of okay flan and a lackluster chocolate trio dessert of chocolate brownie, chocolate tartufo and a chocolate mousse.

Service as expected was rushed though courteous and the food was good but not impressive.  I would probably go back for luncha nd give it another try but the thought of getting there and not being able to sit down and eat is a bit of a deal breaker.  The no-reservation policy doesn't help as one could show up for dinner, line up for more than half an hour and never get a table or get on a waiting list (they don't have one) as had happened to the couple who were right behind us in the queue who ahd to give up and leave and frankly, if we were in any other big restaurant city like New York or London, it wouldn't be a big deal because there will always another cool little place around the corner to eat at, but in Puerto Rico where there isn't much available, it could ruin your evening.

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Jose Enrique
La Placita,
176 Duffaut Street
San Juan, Puerto Rico
Telephone: +1 787 725 3518
Email: info@JoseEnriquePR.com

*Open for lunch and dinner Tuesdays to Fridays: 11:30 am till closing
*Open for dinner only on Saturday: 6:30 pm till closing
*Closed Sunday and Monday

THE BEST OF 2012

It's taken a few weeks to get this blog post together but it's finally here - my annual best of 2012.  The first two were unique and fantastic in every way.  The next three are the best of Puerto Rico followed by the three best in Las Vegas and finally, the two best casual eats, one from a food truck here in Dorado and another from a beach shack in Anguilla.  All in all, 10 of my most memorable meals of the year.  Enjoy and I look forward to more new restaurant discoveries in 2013!

BEST OF THE BEST

Pubbelly (Miami)

A mid-year find on a long weekend mini-break to Miami.  Pubbelly is a gastronomic casual restaurant created by three partners - two Puerto Ricans and one Spanish, which has taken Miami by storm.  After this first foray, they have created four other successful casual eateries - Pubbelly Sushi for modern sushi, Barceloneta for Spanish tapas, Macchialina, an Italian salumeria and trattoria and about a week ago, PB Steak.  These boys have got their concepts down and manage to create a casual atmosphere loved by locals and still serve amazing food.  The menu at Pubbelly is mostly Asian-inspired but there were a few Spanish-influenced tapas as well.  Here's what we had in July.

ABC Kitchen (New York)

Another memorable summer meal was at ABC Kitchen located in the fantastic ABC Carpet & Home. Just over a year old and promoting local and organic ingredients, this was pared down comfort food that was all about the ingredients - assorted lukewarm roasted beets tossed in yoghurt, slices of heirloom tomato with just a sprinkling of salt on crusty bread, just-picked tiny radishes with cold sweet butter and bread - everything was delicious!  The service was friendly, the place casual and the menu so enticing that I can't wait to go back. 

BEST IN PUERTO RICO

Santaella

This was our first dinner out in San Juan, right after we moved to Puerto Rico in March and has remained a favorite since.  Santaella manages to serve a modern take on Puerto Rican cuisine in an unfussy location near the Plaza del Mercado.  Food is good, service is friendly and the place is always packed with locals - what more can one ask for?

Blonda

A recent addition to the Condado scene, Blonda is another casual restaurant that knows what it's doing - simple food in great location with probably, the best brunch in San Juan.  There's valet parking, bookings taken on Open Table and good food in a light-filled space.

Compostela

For classic Spanish fare, there is no place better than Compostela - the interiors are modern but nothing special, come here for the food and the excellent selection of wines.  Every meal we've had here has been exceptional - the menu authentic, the ingredients fresh, the presentation simple, the service efficient and the experience always delicious.   

BEST IN LAS VEGAS

Sambalatte

The best coffee in Las Vegas.  Ever since they opened in 2011, they have been the only place in Las Vegas for proper coffee in all forms and shapes, from espresso to flat white, from cappuccino to mocha, from pour over brewed coffee to Aero Pres,  from granita to affogato - they have proper coffee making and presentation figured out.  I never skip my Sambalatte morning cappuccino when I'm in Vegas and always stop by to say hello to the friendly owner, Luis.

Kabuto

Located in the same nondescript mall as other cult Japanese restaurants, Raku and Monta, Kabuto is a tiny restaurant with just three tables and an adequate sushi counter where the edomae sushi (Tokyo style super fresh sushi) is presented nightly using only the freshest fish and seafood and served slowly, one by one to be enjoyed.  This is the way sushi and sashimi should always be - no tricks, no mayonnaise, no fancy rolls - just fresh fish, perfectly seasoned vinegar rice, crisp seaweed, a tiny dot of wasabi and a dash of premium soy sauce.

Honey Salt

In the same area as Sambalatte, Honey Salt is so new that I haven't even blogged about my lunch there yet (post coming soon) but, believe me, this is the restaurant future for Las Vegas - trained chefs and experienced food and beverage operators band together to create their own restaurant concept.  Honey Salt is homey and the farm to table food is very good, but best of all, the minute one walks in, one can sense that the people behind the scenes know what they're doing from the logos, table settings, decor, menus and seamless service that there really is no longer a need to dine well just in a fancy Vegas hotel. Here's to a burgeoning trendy off-strip restaurant scene in Las Vegas!

BEST STREET/BEACH FOOD

Blanchards Beach Shack
If ever I open another restaurant, this is what I want it to be - simple food, a great outdoor setting and casual atmosphere.  Blanchards on the beautiful Mead's Bay beach in Anguilla is probably the best beach shack restaurant concept I've ever eaten in and for someone who's lived on several islands, that's the highest compliment ever.  Food is simple, containers are recycled, service is quick, prices and reasonable.  Blanchards Beach Shack gives fast food a great reputation.

NanoBox
Last but not least, is this Dorado food truck run by two brothers passionate about food and serving their modern version of Puerto Rican street food.  It's a great way to taste what the island has to offer and although their menu is limited, what they serve is pretty good so it's worth it to stop by for a snack on the weekend when this shiny white brand new food truck is parked just behind the Walgreen's in Dorado.
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Listed by location, in alphabetical order:

Anguilla - Blanchards Beach Shack

Las Vegas -
Honey Salt
Kabuto
Sambalatte

Miami - Pubbelly

New York - ABC Kitchen

Puerto Rico -
Blonda
Compostela
NanoBox
Santaella

BLONDA

The search for brunch is over.  We finally found a place in Condado that satisfies our weekend breakfast/lunch craving and that place is Blonda.  Opened in March of this year,  Blonda is located in a sun-lit corner of San Juan's fancy Ashford Avenue and is a restaurant with an Italian menu of pizzas and pastas but also burgers and steaks.

The brunch menu has specialty drinks and cocktails and a selection of egg dishes - several versions of eggs Benedict (classic, spinach and another one with crab), pancakes and french toast and even steak and eggs.  There are also sandwiches, pizzas, burgers, and a few main courses.  The place is usually packed with locals which is always a good sign and although the service is a bit spotty, they're friendly and accommodating which makes up for it.

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Blonda

1504 Ashford Avenue

(corner De Diego Avenue)

San Juan 00907

Puerto Rico

Phone: +1 787 993 5710

Reservations on Open Table

*Open for lunch and dinner, Mondays to Fridays from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturdays and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.

* Brunch menu on Saturdays and Sundays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

1919 at the Condado Vanderbilt

The historical Condado Vanderbilt hotel in San Juan was built in 1919 by Frederick William Vanderbilt    and reopened recently with 323 rooms and a gourmet restaurant 1919 (named after the year the hotel was built).  1919 showcases the cuisine of Puerto Rico using organic and local ingredients.  The kitchen is headed by chef Juan Jose Cuevas, a Puerto Rican and C.I.A. graduate who worked in Spain at El Raco de Can Fabes with chef Santi Santamaria and in New York at Essex House with Didier Elena and Blue Hill at Stone Barns with Dan Barber.

I was looking through Open Table for a new restaurant when I stumbled upon the listing for 1919 which had only been open a few weeks.  I immediately booked a table for dinner that Friday.  We arrived to a half-full dimly-lit restaurant with modern interiors.  We were led to a table near the large picture glass windows which would have had a full view of the sea at lunch, but as it was in the evening we had the indoor garden and a coqui making its' nightly noises as company instead.  Luckily, the restaurant filled up soon after and the coqui got drowned out by the restaurant bustle.  Service was impeccable and seamless, the waiters were attentive and knew the menu well and the general manager was present to check that everything was going smoothly.

The dinner menu is labeled simply first (salads and starters), second (pasta and risotto), third (fish and meat main courses) and fourth (desserts) with a supplementary cheese course ($12). It is recommended to order the prix-fixe four-course menu ($70) but the dishes may also be ordered a la carte.  (There is also a three-course prix-fixe menu for lunch.)  We opted for the dinner prix-fixe and substituted the dessert course for the cheese course.  The wine list is on an iPad and was fun to look at with the numerous bottles and labels listed.  We settled for a glass of 2009 Fog Dog Pinot Noir for myself glass of 2009 Chablis from Joseph Drouhin for A.  Wines by the glass come served in a small carafe which makes for a generous measure.

For our first course, A had the white eggplant confit and I had the taste of tuna.  The eggplant confit came in a salad of sprouts and was topped by a crispy slice of jamon Iberico and green gazpacho - a creative dish with fresh flavors.  The taste of tuna was a trio of raw tuna prepared three ways - one with mozzarella caviar, another with pine-nuts and capers and the last with octopus and preserved lemons. This starter was less interesting than the eggplant confit as it was the typical raw tuna plate plus it was served so cold that I couldn't distinguish much of the flavors and all three pretty much tasted like cold raw tuna.

Second course was the local calabaza (squash) risotto for A and scallop a la plancha for me.  The risotto was sweet from the squash, tangy from the spinach and rich from the braised veal cheeks - a balanced enough dish but heavy as a mid-course.  My scallop a la plancha (scallop cooked on a griddle) came on top of local bok choy and an aromatic broth.  Although the single scallop was sweet and succulent, it sadly lacked the umami component as it didn't have the caramelized crust formed by searing in a hot pan.

A surprise third course was sent out by the chef which was the best dish that night - wild white salmon placed on top of broccoli, guanciale (unsmoked bacon made from pig cheeks) and green tomato jus.  Here the barely-cooked fish was perfect and the jus and vegetables that accompanied it were delicious as well.  A dish that was deliciously simple and simply delicious.

The main course was served next - terres major wagyu beef (supplement fo $10) for A and the evening's special, not on the menu, cochinillo for me.  The wagyu beef short ribs came with onion cream, stir-fried okra and a side dish or organic grains.  The meat was tender and flavorful and the accompanying okra and onion cream complemented the simply grilled meat.  The organic grains though, were hard to chew and tasted like uncooked wild rice.  The cochinillo was a quarter of a suckling pig with almost black crackling (a bit overcooked for my taste) and was good but not great while the accompanying charred baby lettuce was a nice way to cut the richness of this dish although it could have done without the accompanying bacon wrap as the whole plate was already filled with a large chunk of pork.

The cheese course came last - three cheeses: a hard manchego-like cheese, a soft local goat's cheese and oddly enough - fresh mozzarella (I've never seen this served as an after-dinner cheese course).  There was also a dollop of sweet guava jam and two types of bread: crusty bread (similar to pain de campagne) and a super sweet nut bread almost like a spiced banana nut bread which did not go with the cheese at all.  We ended the meal with espressos - overly roasted and bitter - which we didn't finish and left sated but unimpressed.  Perhaps another visit might prove to be more promising and we do intend to go back once the restaurant has been open for several months to give it another try.
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1919
Condado Vanderbilt Hotel
1055 Ashford Avenue
San Juan 00907
Puerto Rico
Phone: +1 787 724 1919
Reservations via Open Table
*Open for lunch Tuesdays to Fridays from 12 to 3 with a 3-course prix-fixe menu
*Open for dinner Tuesdays to Saturdays from 6 to 11 with a four-course prix fixe menu
*Closed Sundays and Mondays

LA CEIBA

On our way to dinner a few weeks back we passed by a large well-lit cafe on the bustling avenue Roosevelt which we added to our list of new places to try out.  Last Sunday, after brunch at another new discovery in Condado (more on that later), we headed over to Puerto Nuevo to see what they had to offer.

La Ceiba is a large delicatessen and pastry shop specializing in Spanish treats from jamon and chorizo to churros and turron.  A large chiller counter lines one whole wall and is filled with goodies - cakes, pastries, sweets and bread while a small area off to the side has prepared food - boquerones en vinagre (white anchovies marinated in vinegar), seafood paella, chorizos stewed in red wine and lots of other goodies.  There are also sandwiches made with jamon serrano and other Spanish cold cuts.

The cafe itself is more a self-serve cafeteria with simple formica topped tables and wooden chairs where  one can have breakfast, lunch, dinner or a snack as the place is open all day from early in the morning to late in the evening.  It was bustling for a Sunday afternoon with locals lingering over lunch or just having a beer, some ham and watching Spanish football on the large-screen tv's.

We succumbed to a few sweets to go - mallorca, churros, quesitos (a caramelized puff-pasty case stuffed with white cheese) as well as a few salty treats - a togo box of crispy roasted pig crackling and a small portion of seafood paella.  La Ceiba is perfect for a simple Spanish meal or a coffee and a pastry with a bit of local flavor thrown in.

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La Ceiba

1239 Ave. Franklin D. Roosevelt

Puerto Nuevo 00920

Puerto Rico

Telephone: +1 787 782 0419

*Open all-day everyday from 6:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.

IL NUOVO PERUGINO

Originally located in old San Juan, this authentic Italian restaurant opened 20 years ago by Franco Seccarelli has had a loyal following over the years.  Recently, he moved to a modern office tower in the city's financial district.  The cozy ambiance was lost as the new location is a glass-enclosed and wood-lined modern interior, but the food has remained the same - classic Italian dishes presented with fresh ingredients.  There is an Enoteca with a large bar, a superb wine list and simple tables for a casual meal and the adjacent main restaurant with white linen-covered tables and a more subdued atmosphere.

The selection changes with the seasons and when we went, there were a few heartier "winter" dishes like rabbit on the menu.  We settled on three appetizers to share: the goat cheese salad, baked aubergine and beef carpaccio.  Our meal began with warm ciabatta served with olive oil then an amuse bouche of cod croquette.

The beef carpaccio was perfect - paper thin slices of beef topped with the classic shards of Parmesan and spicy baby arugula.  The goat cheese salad was actually not a salad but a chunk of creamy warm goat's cheese served with fresh pesto and delicious spread on crispy bread.  I liked the tower of aubergines best - soft and smoky eggplant slices topped with melted cheese and accompanied by a light tomato sauce.

We all chose pasta for our second course - spinach and ricotta gnocchi for A, penne arrabbiata for J and the tagliolini amatricana for me.  The gnocchi were soft pillows of spinach flavored potato balls, surprisingly light yet creamy.  My tagliolini amatriciana was complemented with the flavor of the bacon, onions and tomatoes.  J's penne was a bit of a disappointment with the tomato sauce being tart rather than spicy.  We ended dinner with a shared tiramisu - o.k. but lacking in coffee flavor and the accompanying mush of soaked savoaiardi (ladyfingers).  The chef came over to say hello and we promised to be back another time, perhaps for lunch when I imagine the place would be bright and sunny.

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Il Nuovo Perugino
Popular Center Atrium
2nd Floor
Hato Rey Financial District
Telephone: +1 787 722 5481
*Open for lunch Mondays to Fridays from 11:30 a.m.
*Open for dinner Tuesdays to Saturdays from 6:30 to 10:30 p.m.

NEW TASTE

In our constant search for proper Asian food, we finally went to the Chinese restaurant that is supposed to be the most authentic on the island which is also conveniently located across the street to the only Asian grocery in San Juan.

We went for Sunday dim sum and were pleasantly surprised to enter a bright restaurant filled with large Chinese families having lunch - a good sign.  We ordered a few dim sum items from the typical large menu along with a few a la carte dishes.

The dim sum came piping hot in the standard metal containers - har gao (prawn dumplings), siu mai (pork siumai), char siu bao (roast pork buns) which were quite good.  We noticed that the other tables had some cheung fun (flat rice noodles filled with either meat or seafood) which wasn't on the menu but which we'll try on our next visit.  We also had the salt and pepper squid - a classic salty, spicy and crunchy Chinese dish, sesame chicken which was overly sweet, delicious crispy fried noodles with vegetables and egg fried rice.   All in all a decent meal and a good discovery.  After lunch, we went over to the Asian grocery to have a look at what they have available then walked over to the Condado Sunday market. 

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New Taste

1018 Avenida Ashford

Condado 00907

Puerto Rico

Telephone: +1 787 721 8111

URBAN MARKET (Mercado Urbano)

On the first Sunday of every month (next one is on December 2), a lively market is held in Condado's Ventana al Mar which is the large plaza on Avenida Ashford right in front of the sea.  Housed in a large tent, there are numerous stalls selling everything from plants (orchid, lavender and fresh herbs) to artisan bread from artepan, from farm fresh fruits and vegetables to straw hats perfect for the blinding Caribbean sun.  There are also several food stalls with lechon asado (roast pig), bacalaitos (fried cod fritters) and even tropical flavored ice cream.  It's a fun day out and a good way to spend a Sunday afternoon wandering through the stalls and stopping by for a snack or a bit of shopping.

Mercado Urbano

First Sunday of every month from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.

Ventana Al Mar on Avenida Ashford

Condado

Puerto Rico

Day trip: OLD SAN JUAN & CAFETERIA MALLORCA

Mid-week during my sister and aunt's visit to Puerto Rico, we decided to do a walking tour of San Juan with Castillo Tours.  Our driver and guide, Hector, picked us up at home and drove us on the scenic beach road and we arrived in Old San Juan half an hour later.  First stop was the Capitol building.  Constructed from 1925 to 1929, this all-white marble Neo-classical structure houses the Puerto Rican legislature and is the first historical building we see upon driving into old San Juan.  The interior dome is decorated in fine mosaic of historical events in Puerto Rico.  There is a also plaza across the street right by the water with all the escudos (shield/badges), also in mosaic, of all the towns of Puerto Rico.

Next stop was the imposing Castillo San Cristobal where we climbed up then went down into the dark and claustrophobia-inducing dungeons then up again into the main interior square and then towards the view deck where we had a bird's-eye view of old San Juan.  From there, we walked some more and visited the other main fort  Castillo San Felipe del Morro, otherwise known as El Morro where the beautifully-preserved grey lighthouse is and a large area which gave us a fantastic view of the sea.

From there. we walked through the blue-cobble-stoned streets, pavers that were brought over by the Spanish and used to line the tiny streets of Old San Juan.  We stopped and sat under the shade of a plaza where the Museo Pablo Casals was located then continued our walk towards the water and outside the main gate into old San Juan where there is a tree-lined walkway adjacent to the sea.  By then, the heat was unbearable and as we forgot to bring our straw hats (a must when exploring the Caribbean), we stopped one more time in the shade and had a limber, a local frozen treat similar to a Popsicle, usually flavored with coconut, pineapple or lemon and a refreshing treat on a sweltering Puerto Rican day.  We then walked towards the cathedral and had a quick look at the historical Hotel El Convento then explored a bit of Calle Fortaleza, one of old San Juan's main streets with lots of little restaurants and shops with Barrachina, a must-stop for it's shady courtyard and especially to sample a complimentary glass of Piña Colada in the place where it was invented in 1963.  

It was almost 2:00 p.m. when we decided to head back home but before we did, we made one last stop for a takeaway lunch of a Puerto Rican treat, a mallorca con jamon y queso from the famous Cafeteria Mallorca.  Now that both La Mallorquina and La Bombonera have closed down, Cafeteria Mallorca  is the only place in old San Juan to have the classic mallorca, a sweet brioche type bread from Spain, plain with butter or toasted with ham and cheese along with a cup of milky coffee.  If you have time, sit at the retro diner counter, be served by the bow-tied old-timers and watch the locals for a taste of old San Juan.

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El Capitolio de Puerto Rico

208 Calle O'Donell

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

+1 787 724 2281

Castillo San Cristobal and Castillo San Felipe del Morro

*Open daily from 9:00 to 6:00 p.m. except on Thanksgiving day, Christmas day and New Year's day

Barrachina

104 Calle Fortaleza

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

Telephone: +1 787 725 7912

*Open daily for lunch, dinner and drinks from 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. , On Wednesdays from 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Cafeteria Mallorca

300 Calle San Francisco

Old San Juan, Puerto Rico

+1 787 724 4607

Day trip: PLAZA DEL MERCADO

Half a year after moving to Puerto Rico, I finally decided to check out the Plaza del Mercado in Santurce.  Built in 1910, the market used to have two floors with the ground floor used for offices and ticket sellers and the upper floor for vendors of produce and butchers.  In later years, the second floor was removed and what remains now is just the main floor with several fruit and vegetable stalls, mostly selling bananas, plantains, yucca, sweet potatoes, chilies and chinas, the local oranges and the extra-large light-green skinned local avocados.  There is also a stall with hats and cigars for sale and a tiny souvenir shop off to one corner.  The butcher is now located outside the Plaza on the adjacent strip of la placita (small plaza or town square).

At sunset, la placita becomes a lively hangout for locals and tourists with the nearby bars and restaurants lining the side streets open and set up tables outside and live music blaring onto the square.  Closer to midnight, the street becomes livelier when the locals and tourists start to relax after several rum concoctions and impromptu salsa dancing takes place.  We went late in the morning, explored a bit then had a lovely lunch at nearby Santaella, one of our favorite San Juan restaurants, and by 3:00 p.m. we were headed back home to Dorado.

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Plaza del Mercado
Santurce, Puerto Rico
*Open Mondays to Saturdays from 6:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., Sundays from 6:00 a.m. to 12 noon
*Bars and restaurants on La Placita open in the evenings till very late.

PIKAYO

Chef Wilo Benet's Pikayo is one of Puerto Rico's most celebrated fine dining restaurants since it opened in 1990.  22 years in the restaurant business is pretty impressive so we had Pikayo on our go-to list.  On a Saturday evening a few weeks back, I booked a table via Open table and reserved one for 7:30 p.m.  We arrived in Condado early and enjoyed the lively scene on Ashford avenue on the way to the Conrad Condado Plaza.  The hotel lobby and entrance is quite stark and modern with an escalator leading up to the upper level where the restaurant is located right by the casino.  Pikayo has a bar and lounge seating right by the door and a larger dining in the rear.  There was a mix of families with young children and larger groups having dinner but the restaurant wasn't full yet when we arrived for our reservation.

We were seated in the middle of the room and asked to be moved to a more quiet corner table and they accommodated our request immediately.  After ordering drinks, we had a look at their extensive menu and finally decided to share three dishes from the Pikadera (small appetizers) followed by a main course each.  We were given some warm bread rolls and a sweetened butter (maple syrup?) which is seems quite common here in Puerto Rico with different flavored butters accompanying the bread basket.  We started out with one of their signature Pikadera bites - the petit pork belly burgers with Gouda cheese - six tiny buns filled with ground pork belly and topped with melted Gouda which were delicious.  This was followed by a very interesting cold Pikadera of Portuguese octopus with shallot escabeche and jamon serrano - thinly sliced tender octopus topped with slivers of ham and minced shallots -  a modern surf and turf bite.  Next up was our third dish from the appetizers - risotto de gandules (pigeon peas) con chicharron - which they split into two small bowls.  The risotto was creamy, infused with saffron, tossed with tiny pigeon peas and the best part were the shards of crunchy pork crackling scattered throughout the risotto.

The main courses came next - seared scallops on celery root puree for me and a rare hanger steak with shallots (exactly like a classic French bistro dish - bavette a l'echalote) and sauteed potatoes for A plus a shared side dish of Pikayo fries - crispy shoestring potatoes.  The scallops were fresh and sweet as they should be and the celery root puree was good but also slightly sweet so the dish lacked some contrasting flavor.  The hanger steak was perfectly cooked rare and the accompanying shallot and parsley topping complemented the meat well.  For dessert, we shared a chocolate souffle (which had to be ordered at the beginning of the meal) which was a bit of a disappointment - the souffle was too gooey and had too many sugar crystals lining the ramekin so we were eating hot chocolate and crunching sugar with every bite.  Dinner was very good, the cuisine was creative and service was seamless but the restaurant lacked atmosphere and that was what was missing all evening.

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Pikayo

Conrad Condado Plaza

999 Ave. Dr. Ashford

San Juan 00907 Puerto Rico

Telephone: +1 787 721 6194

*Open daily for dinner

MARMALADE

We had heard so much about Marmalade that when some friends organized a dinner there a few weeks ago, we readily agreed.  We went to Old San Juan on a Wednesday evening and after walking up and down Calle Foratleza, we finally found Marmalade.  We got there first so we waited at the bar for the other two couples to arrive.  As soon as they got there, we were led to a quiet corner table right by the wine cellar.  The cuisine at Marmalade is sort of modern Mediterranean with an extensive menu which they encourage you to try either in a four-course, five-course or six-course tasting menu.  There is also the Marmalade 10-course degustation which can be enjoyed with a matching wine per course.  We all thought that was too much food for a mid-week meal so five of us opted for the five-courses and one for the four-course menu.  The good thing is that each one gets to choose two appetizers from their long list followed by the white bean and truffle soup, a main course and a dessert.  The portions are adjusted for the multi-course menu so they are smaller than an a la carte portion.  After reading through the menu, we finally made our choices and started the first of two bottles of Pulenta Estate Malbec from Mendoza.

I made sure to choose three dishes that were listed in the 10-course tasting menu so I knew that I was trying Marmalade's recommended dishes.  I started off with the tuna  - chunks of sashimi grade tuna tossed in sesame seeds, sesame oil and lime which came with a crispy rice crackers,  This was followed by the unique paella appetizer - three crispy individual bites of saffron rice (sort of like risotto cakes) topped with a sliver of chorizo and some aioli.  Next was their signature white bean soup which came in an espresso cup, scented with truffle oil - a richly flavored mushroomey cream complimented by tiny crispy bacon bits - my favorite dish.  For my main course, I chose the seafood special - an Andalusian-style cod asopao (Puerto-rican style soup) in a red pepper and saffron-based frothy broth, topped with clams.  Finally for dessert, I had the cheekily named coffee (not really coffee but a chocolate pot de creme served in another espresso cup so it looked like coffee) and donuts (chocolate raspberry macadamia beignets.  We were almost the last ones at the restaurant when we finally decided to head back to Dorado.  All in all, a lovely dinner getting to know new friends and talking about anything and everything and a sign of more good times to come.

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Marmalade

317 Fortaleza Street

Old San Juan

Puerto Rico

Telephone: +1 787 724 3969

*Dinner daily.  Open till late on Fridays and Saturdays.

*Reservations highly recommended.

COMPOSTELA

A few weeks back we were invited to dinner at Compostela, which I was so looking forward to as this is one of San Juans' top restaurants for tapas and Spanish cuisine. This Galician-owned restaurant opened in 1982 where it has maintained its' reputation for fine Spanish cuisine.  Recently renovated and turned into a restaurant with a wine bar/shop, Compostela has transformed into a much more modern space but still serves the same quality tapas and Spanish dishes that they have perfected over the years. 

The entrance opens onto a wine bar with a large cruvinet (wine dispenser chilled cabinet) and shelves lining the walls with an impressive number of hard-to-find Spanish wines which can either be ordered in the restaurant or purchased to take home.  Towards the back is a larger space where modern art adorn the walls and simple black tables and chairs are spread out in the rectangular room. We arrived around 7:30 and were seated with our hosts at a quiet corner table.  A refreshing dry Spanish white wine (I didn't get to see the label) was served and since our hosts are regulars at this restaurant and knew what to order, the tapas started to appear.

We started off with delicious sashimi-grade tuna chunks drizzled with a balsamic glaze and sprinkled with black sesame seeds.  Then came three platters of classic Spanish tapas - Manchego (cheese),  jamon serrano and croquetas de bacalao (cod fish croquettes).  The ham and cheese were authentic and the croquetas were crisp on the outside and gooey on the inside, the way they are supposed to be.

After polishing off most of the tapas, menus were presented so we could choose our main courses. While waiting for our dishes to be served, the owner  brought out a new appetizer for us to try - foie gras stuffed in a roll of paper-thin slices of langoustines, topped with shredded almonds and covered in a savory olive oil foam - it was an deliciously interesting combination of melting warm duck liver and encased in the delicate langoustine.

The menu is varied and there were so many other enticing items on the menu which I'll definitely try on my next visit - my favorite arroz negro con calamares y aioli (squid-ink rice with squid), cochinillo confitado (suckling pig confit) and lots of other interesting tapas, but being a Galician restaurant, fish and seafood were their specialties and that evening, there were two fish of the day (La Pesca del Dia) - sauteed halibut with olive oil and garlic and the rare swordfish topped with jabugo (the extraordinary Spanish cured ham from black-footed acorn fed pigs).  I chose the swordfish which was highly recommended by the chef and A had the lomo de cordero con parsillada (lamb loin).  The swordfish was a modern version of tataki - seared on the outside but raw on the inside slices of swordfish over creamy white beans and sprinkled with tiny slivers of umami-packed jamon jabugo.  A's lamb loin was perfectly cooked - crisp on the outside yet rose on the inside as lamb should be, and came with sauteed spinach and mushrooms.  Both dishes were perfectly executed and had the right mix of textures and flavors that make a main course one-of-a-kind.

We all couldn't resist ordering a dessert to finish off the dinner.  I had the tropical sorbet selection - coconut, mango and guava and A had the crema Catalana (Spanish version of creme brulee).  By the time we had our espressos, the restaurant was packed and noisy so we all left soon after.  Dinner at Compostela was the first impressive restaurant experience I had since arriving in San Juan - authentic yet modern cuisine, a great wine selection, efficient service and the opportunity to discover it with interesting and generous hosts who were clearly food lovers as well, made me optimistic about the dining offerings in Puerto Rico. 

P.D. October 24, 2012

We've been back a few more times and were impressed with the consistently high quality of the ingredients used.  Recently, we tried their arroz negro and it was like we were back in Spain.  A must-visit for tapas and Spanish food craving.

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Bodegas Compostela
Avenida Condado 106
San Juan 00907
Puerto Rico
Telephone: +1 787 724 6099

*Open for lunch and dinner Mondays to Fridays 12 noon to 10 p.m., Saturdays for dinner 3 to 10 p.m.
*Wine store open Mondays to Saturdays 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
*Valet parking

BLT Steak

Craving a bit of the city, we left quiet Dorado where we live, for bustling San Juan.  A and I took J, our 10-year old along, for dinner at BLT Steak.  Originally created in 2004 by French chef Laurent Tourondel (hence the name, Bistro Laurent Tourondel) with his then business partner Jimmy Haber, the BLT restaurants are now owned and operated by Mr. Haber's ESquared Hospitality restaurant group when the partnership between the two broke up in 2010.

Our booking was for 8:45 and when we arrived, the restaurant was still quite full from the first seating so we waited a bit for our table to be ready.  We were seated at one of the more comfortable banquettes lining one side of the room.  The place was busy which is always nice to see in a restaurant.  Interiors are elegant but casual - black leather-covered chairs accented with white piping and wooden tables with simple place mats, cutlery and a tumbler on the tabletop.  Menus were set on the table and water was served along with a complimentary appetizer of cold cuts - saucisson sec, jambon cru, chorizo and viande de grison (the French version of air-dried beef) along with some grilled bread and gruyere bites which we enjoyed while studying the menu.

The menu is varied for a steakhouse - there was a raw bar selection (oysters, ceviche) and salads and appetizers; steaks, poultry, fish and seafood on the grill accompanied by an assortment of sauces and  different side dishes - potatoes, vegetables, and mushrooms. They also have some specials on the blackboard.  We finally settled on the tuna tartar to start followed by two main courses - the 14 oz. (almost 400 grams) NY strip and jumbo shrimp with two sides: French fries and creamy spinach.  J wasn't interested to order anything from the kid's menu so we decided we would share everything.

First on the table after we ordered were BLT's famous popovers - puffy gruyere topped hollow rolls, similar to Yorkshire pudding, served with unsalted butter and a large silver sea salt shaker.  The presentation was fun and the popovers even better.  Our tuna tartar came next - chopped sushi-grade tuna formed into a block and served with diced avocados in a sesame oil and lime dressing which we piled on top of delicious criss-cut potato chips.  The chef sent out another appetizer for us to try - the daily ceviche from the specials menu which was raw grouper in lime juice and chopped red onions - a tangy mouthful on top of crispy tostones - fried plantain chips and an interesting alternative to the sweet and salty tuna tartar.  Both appetizers were outstanding and a great way to start our dinner. 

Next came the main courses - the seared NY strip in a cast-iron platter with a classic Bearnaise on the side, and the grilled jumbo shrimp with cilantro-lemon confit.  Our two side dishes - French fries in a large paper cone and the creamed spinach in a small cast-iron dish also came with two extra side dishes compliments of the chef: braised carrots and green beans with garlic, also in small cast-iron dishes - a nice touch.  Our table was quite full by now so we shared the dishes and had a bit of everything.  The steak was a beautiful hunk of meat, sadly overcooked to medium well instead of medium-rare like we asked and the jumbo shrimps lacked flavor despite adding the citrus sauce.  The side dishes though, were a triumph - the carrots sweet, the spinach creamy, the beans garlicky and the french fries salty and crispy.

After trying our best to finish all that food, we chose just one dessert to share - the caramelized cheesecake with citrus soup.  Once again, we were pleasantly surprised by the chef's generosity of sending out two other desserts: the amazing crepe souffle with passion fruit sauce and the white chocolate creme brulee with raspberry sorbet just because the server overheard my son ask me about it. Espressos finished off our dinner accompanied by dark chocolate espresso brownie bites.  When we finally asked for the bill, we got the biggest surprise of all, dinner was on the house.  We'll definitely be back to try the rest of the menu and I'm sure the next time, J will insist to come along again for another delicious dinner.

P.D. October 24, 2012

We have been back several times to BLT and the food has been consistently good on our recent visits.  The meat was cooked perfectly and the side dishes, from the mushrooms to the different types of potatoes, were always done well.  Service is friendly and one of the most efficient in San Juan.  

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BLT Steak
at the Ritz-Carlton San Juan
6961 Avenida de los Gobernadores
Isla Verde, Carolina
00979 Puerto Rico
Telephone: +1 787 253 1700
*Open daily for dinner from 6:00 to 10:00 p.m.
*10 other locations in the U.S. and one in Hong Kong

OLD SAN JUAN

Doorways and facades in Viejo San Juan

A month after we arrived here in Puerto Rico, we decided it was time to finally explore Old San Juan which is the oldest city in U.S. territory.  This Caribbean island was founded by Christopher Columbus in 1493 and originally named San Juan after San Juan Bautista (St. John the Baptist).  The island's name was changed in the early 1500's to Puerto Rico (rich port) and San Juan was retained as the town name. Originally conceived as a military stronghold, old San Juan is just seven square blocks with the 16th century citadel, El Morro, and the Castillo de San Cristobal Fort, as its' main historical attractions.  There are also other interesting architectural sights to see while walking around  - the cathedral, city hall, the Capitol building a few chapels and churches.  Several museums are also located in Old San Juan - the Art and History museum, the Fine Arts Center, Pablo Casals museum among others. 

Panama hats at Ole

Small plazas serve as central areas in old San Juan where many restaurants and boutiques are housed in colonial buildings with colorful facades.  Walking around the tiny streets reminded me of the cobble-stoned walkways of Andalusia in southern Spain. We explored for a few hours wandering around the main streets of Calle Fortaleza and Calle Cristo when we stumbled upon a fantastic little hat shop, Ole, specializing in Panama hats - perfect head gear for the searing Caribbean midday sun. We looked through many of the hats they had on display and finally settled on a classic Panama hat which they fit to one's head and customize with the ribbon of your choice.  Setting off once more with cooler heads, we walked to Calle Cristo and had a look at the Hotel El Convento with its' shady terrace and rooms overlooking the inner courtyard.

By this time it was high noon and getting hotter by the minute so we decided to stop for some lunch at the Parrot Club, also on Calle Fortaleza.  The first of the six restaurants from the  OOF Restaurant group, Parrot Club opened in 1996 in Old San Juan and is right across the street from another trendy OOF restaurant, Dragonfly.  The restaurant serves Nuevo Latino cuisine with dishes like empanadillas de churrasco (flank steak turnovers), ropa vieja nachos, and ceviche.  We ordered starters only since the portions were good enough for a light lunch: St. Louis baby back ribs with crispy coleslaw, chicharrones de pollo - crispy fried chicken pieces covered in Caribbean spices, the empanadillas de churrasco y chorizo - crispy pastry cases filled with meat and sausage, quesadilla de queso fresco - filled with white cheese, and a Latin Cobb salad - the usual romaine, bacon and egg with the unusual hearts of palm, avocados and white queso fresco added in.  We also had iced teas and cold lemonades - perfect after the heat.  After our meal, we decided it was time to head home for a siesta and come back to old San Juan another day to explore the town more.

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Ole

105 Calle Fortaleza

Old San Juan

Telephone: +1 787 724 2445

Parrot Club

Calle Fortaleza 363

Old San Juan

Telephone: +1 787 725 7370

SANTAELLA

On a weekday evening we headed to San Juan where we were meeting up with some friends of friends for dinner at a newish restaurant which opened in mid-2011 in Santurce near the market.  Santaella is the well-designed space with rough concrete walls, funky string lights, antique tiled floors and a pocket tropical garden lining one wall.  Jose Santaella was a well-known gourmet caterer on the island before he ventured into the restaurant business and has many years of experience and training abroad.  He is also a well-recognized chef for his use of local ingredients and modern interpretation of Caribbean criolla cuisine.

After a half hour drive from Dorado where we meticulously followed our GPS's guiding voice, we made it to Calle Canals where we walked into a packed restaurant with several people waiting to be seated at the bar.  The friends we were meeting up with hadn't arrived yet so we sat at the bar and watched the crowd.  Soon after, N and A arrived and we were led to our table.  As this was our first time at Santaella, N decided to order several plates to share from the menu.

The starters were typical Caribbean deep-fried bites:  classic grouper fritters, flaky fish covered in a crispy batter with a roasted red pepper dip on the side, empanadas or turnovers filled with ground beef, bread-crumbed veal chops you just pick up and eat off the bone and an arugula salad.  We enjoyed all these with a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon.  The appetizers were quite good and despite the fact that all were deep-fried, none of them were oily.  We then shared a lentil salad topped with a round of goat's cheese which came with a mini-baguette.  The salad was delicious - creamy green lentils tossed in a honey mustard vinaigrette and perfectly complemented by the hunk of warm goat's cheese.

When we finished our main course, chef Santaella came over to say hello and asked us how our dinner was which was a nice touch.  We shared two desserts afterwards: a crispy layered Nutella-filled pancake with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a fruit cobbler - baked peaches and strawberries with a dollop of thick sour cream.  The meal ended with fresh mint tea for everyone but A who had his usual espresso.  It was our first dinner out in the city, one of many more to come, and we were impressed with the lively atmosphere and sophisticated crowd at Santaella.  Wonder which restaurant we'll go to next?

P.D. May 28, 2012

We've been back to Santaella for dinner on a busy Friday evening and were still impressed with the efficient service and fantastic food.  It's a must-do restaurant in San Juan and has become our favorite.

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Santaella

219 Calle Canals

Plaza del Mercado Santurce

San Juan, PR 00907

Tel: +1 (787) 725-1611

*Open for lunch Monday to Friday 11:00a m-3:00 pm, Dinner Wednesday to Saturday 6:30-11:30 pm

*Valet parking offered but also two nearby self-park buildings